Only found this site today as per my other post, but like most with SIP migs i've had feed problems. so here are a few of the things i've done that have improved my feed.
Usual metal liner.
Adjusted properly to almost touch the drive wheels
Drive wheel brace
Removed cleaned and reconnected every single slectrical connection in the case
I also recommend checking the gearbox, so unscrew it then unscrew the motor. Now when I did this i turned the square output shaft while looking in at the gears, the 1st gear visible that meshes with the motor appeared to have a duff bearing as it moved quite considerably when the direction was reversed it was also very stiff to turn. So I drilled out the rivets and removed the one screw holding the box together.
Carefully prise the case apart and prepare to be confonted with gease like candle wax, so remove all the gears taking care not to lose the very small bearing washers and clean them, then the case was cleaned. with a bit of thin grease (I used a semi fluid type often used in car CCV joints) refit.
I noticed that one of the gear shafts (the one with two gears on it) when fitted barely protruded from the gears. this meant that it was not engaging with the lid of the case, hence the movement witnessed earlier. I made a small shim up to fit in the shaft support hole in the base of the case. this allowed the shaft to stick up so it is supported by the lid when refitted.
The case was then sucured together with screws, you will need a thin head or countersunk type for the corner by the tensioner hinge. It was now much easier and smoother to turn the output shaft of the gearbox.
Check the tensioner, it's probably stiffened up and quite possibly touching the plastic it's pushed into causing drag, due to the small shaft pressed through the bearing not being centralised, so centralise and refit.
Now before refitting the wire place a bit of preload on the tensioner. now operate the mig and observe the drive wheel. you will possible see some ecentricity as the tensioner moves up and down thus varying the tension and also the drag on the motor. this is due to the sqaure hole in the drive wheel not being central and also the drive shaft is not very accurate. so turnethe drive wheel 1/4 turn at a time on the shaft and find the match that creates the least eccentricity.
All this helped me quite considerably before the trim pot committed suicide. Also when I refit the pcb transistor a little heat transfer compound cant hurt where it rivets to the heatsink
At the very least it gives the puny motor and power feed a bit more of a chance you will find it runs much quieter aswell
Usual metal liner.
Adjusted properly to almost touch the drive wheels
Drive wheel brace
Removed cleaned and reconnected every single slectrical connection in the case
I also recommend checking the gearbox, so unscrew it then unscrew the motor. Now when I did this i turned the square output shaft while looking in at the gears, the 1st gear visible that meshes with the motor appeared to have a duff bearing as it moved quite considerably when the direction was reversed it was also very stiff to turn. So I drilled out the rivets and removed the one screw holding the box together.
Carefully prise the case apart and prepare to be confonted with gease like candle wax, so remove all the gears taking care not to lose the very small bearing washers and clean them, then the case was cleaned. with a bit of thin grease (I used a semi fluid type often used in car CCV joints) refit.
I noticed that one of the gear shafts (the one with two gears on it) when fitted barely protruded from the gears. this meant that it was not engaging with the lid of the case, hence the movement witnessed earlier. I made a small shim up to fit in the shaft support hole in the base of the case. this allowed the shaft to stick up so it is supported by the lid when refitted.
The case was then sucured together with screws, you will need a thin head or countersunk type for the corner by the tensioner hinge. It was now much easier and smoother to turn the output shaft of the gearbox.
Check the tensioner, it's probably stiffened up and quite possibly touching the plastic it's pushed into causing drag, due to the small shaft pressed through the bearing not being centralised, so centralise and refit.
Now before refitting the wire place a bit of preload on the tensioner. now operate the mig and observe the drive wheel. you will possible see some ecentricity as the tensioner moves up and down thus varying the tension and also the drag on the motor. this is due to the sqaure hole in the drive wheel not being central and also the drive shaft is not very accurate. so turnethe drive wheel 1/4 turn at a time on the shaft and find the match that creates the least eccentricity.
All this helped me quite considerably before the trim pot committed suicide. Also when I refit the pcb transistor a little heat transfer compound cant hurt where it rivets to the heatsink
At the very least it gives the puny motor and power feed a bit more of a chance you will find it runs much quieter aswell
