- Thread starter Woody.v8
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Woody.v8
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Yes it is.
Woody.v8
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I don't fully agree, they seem to do quite a few years before they crack and this repair has only lasted 12 months.
Yes there is a problem with the chassis but if I can weld it up to last another 15 years as the original frame did I will be happy.
Richard.
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It’s quite common for motor bike frames to be made from 6061 T6
I’m not saying that’s what yours is made of as I don’t know but if it is then I would definitely look at rewelding it with 5356. It’s a higher strength consumable than 4043 so it might stand a better chance of holding out through the design. Both 4043 and 5356 are suitable for 6xxx grades so it can’t hurt to give it ago. It’s a shame it’s cracked as you’ve done a nice job of welding it up.
I’m not saying that’s what yours is made of as I don’t know but if it is then I would definitely look at rewelding it with 5356. It’s a higher strength consumable than 4043 so it might stand a better chance of holding out through the design. Both 4043 and 5356 are suitable for 6xxx grades so it can’t hurt to give it ago. It’s a shame it’s cracked as you’ve done a nice job of welding it up.
Richard.
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Here’s a nice post from hotrodder on a similar subject.
Explains things perfectly including some of the science
God rest him he was a brilliant man.
Explains things perfectly including some of the science
God rest him he was a brilliant man.
Brad93
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What frame is that Woody?
I’ve repaired a lot of Honda and Yamaha bits. The filler metal in the constructors manual is always 5356 for frames
If it’s cracked again either you didn’t penetrate through enough or the 4043 brought the dilution of either the silicon or magnesium in the weldmetal and surrounding parent material down into the crack sensitive region.
I’ve repaired a lot of Honda and Yamaha bits. The filler metal in the constructors manual is always 5356 for frames
If it’s cracked again either you didn’t penetrate through enough or the 4043 brought the dilution of either the silicon or magnesium in the weldmetal and surrounding parent material down into the crack sensitive region.
Woody.v8
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Kawasaki zx9r, This model is known for cracking but like I said , I'd have hoped my repair would have done a bit longer.
Brad93
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it looks like you’ve opened up a fair gap around the crack. Welding it will cause contraction and therefore promote even higher stress around that area.
As you’ve already cut it out completely I would back purge the section if possible, try and clean the oxides as best as I could, and preheat the area to exactly 75 degrees.
The reason behind the back purging is to obtain as smooth and uniform a bead as possible in your open root situation.
Make sure you’ve got a good prep/bevel to ensure good fusion through the entire thickness.
As you’ve already cut it out completely I would back purge the section if possible, try and clean the oxides as best as I could, and preheat the area to exactly 75 degrees.
The reason behind the back purging is to obtain as smooth and uniform a bead as possible in your open root situation.
Make sure you’ve got a good prep/bevel to ensure good fusion through the entire thickness.
