Mitre saw choice - multi material or not?

[Gragson]

For a start my budget is only about £300 I'm looking to replace my pretty basic Ferm chop saw with something more versatile + bigger capacity.

It will be doing wood for the most majority of the time.
I've been looking at this Lumberjack 12" as spec seems good for diy and as do a bit of homemade stuff with sleepers, it will cut through 100mm in one go.
The machine & blade is only specified for wood - if I "wanted to" would I be able to get a multi material blade at 12" for this? or even if I could would that be a bad idea?

Pardon our interruption...

But also been looking at this Evolution 10" which does not have as many features like bevel cut, both ways, (unless I'm mistaken?) nor the depth, but will cut multi materials.
I've a Femi and a Workzone band saws for steel plastics already, so not sure if I should get pulled on this - although they are now stating "no heat, no burrs and virtually no sparks on steel! - anyone experience of that?

Pardon our interruption...

What do you guys reckon on the 12" MM blade question or should I just focus on the LJ for wood? although the "non sparking" Evo is attractive - really undecided..

 

[GRW]

For a start my budget is only about £300 I'm looking to replace my pretty basic Ferm chop saw with something more versatile + bigger capacity.

It will be doing wood for the most majority of the time.
I've been looking at this Lumberjack 12" as spec seems good for diy and as do a bit of homemade stuff with sleepers, it will cut through 100mm in one go.
The machine & blade is only specified for wood - if I "wanted to" would I be able to get a multi material blade at 12" for this? or even if I could would that be a bad idea?

Pardon our interruption...

But also been looking at this Evolution 10" which does not have as many features like bevel cut, both ways, (unless I'm mistaken?) nor the depth, but will cut multi materials.
I've a Femi and a Workzone band saws for steel plastics already, so not sure if I should get pulled on this - although they are now stating "no heat, no burrs and virtually no sparks on steel! - anyone experience of that?

Pardon our interruption...

What do you guys reckon on the 12" MM blade question or should I just focus on the LJ for wood? although the "non sparking" Evo is attractive - really undecided..

If you already have bandsaw for steel (& ones that are portable) - why bother with a multi-process blade for a Mitre Saw?
Seems to me you already have decicated kit for cutting steel, that will do that job better & quieter already

 

[stumcf]

I picked up the smaller evolution recently and really couldn't recommend it for any metal cutting, the sheer noise and the violence of the chips flying off is something else (I'll upload a clip tomorrow if you want) ended up getting one of the parkside bandsaws instead

 

[gaz1]

it dosnt matter nowadays its buy your saw and then buy a multiblade

as the evo discs will fit in most saws

 

[brightspark]

i have a nice makita chopsaw it only gets used on new wood acurate work. i have other saws i use for crappy stuff so it doest matter if the woods gritty or hits a nail

 

[fractured]

I have a Makita LC1230. It's a TCT blade and cuts great, but screeches like a banshee - you definitely need ear protection.

It's certainly better than a abrasive type chopsaw, much nicer accurate cuts, no sparks - but, the chips from the cut are very hot, as in starting to turn blue, so don't go thinking they wouldn't set something alight.

Whatever you get, look at the price of replacement blades too as that may make a difference to the decision you make.

I agree with the other posters about getting the machine that will suit the majority of work you will be doing with it - especially as you have other capable tools.

 

[Pond frog]

I’ve got a large evolution multi mitre saw and I wouldn’t use it on metal unless I was desperate, there is no way to firmly clamp material and frankly it doesn’t feel safe

 

[eddie49]

Please see my post #6 in this thread about a slow-speed home-converted "cold saw" :

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/cold-cutting-saw-wanted.123754/

and also this new variable-speed brushless AC-mains-powered saw from Stahlwerk:

STAHLWERK Metal cutting saw MT-30 ST brushless technology, 449,99 €

STAHLWERK metal cutting saw MT-30 ST, powerful brushless motor, ergonomic handle, quiet running, low maintenance, 7 years warranty

www.stahlwerk-schweissgeraete.de

 

[SierraV6]

I agree with the other posters in regard to buying a dedicated wood bothering saw.

I will however say that I quite like my Evolution saw. It is indeed noisy, violent and frankly rather rough and ready, but it’s served me well over the years.

 

[dobbslc]

If you want to accurately miter skirting boards and achitrave etc you're better off having a decent saw just for that as chopping great lumps of metal up will ruin it.
I've got a nice Bosch saw for the finish work at home, it only has a one sided bevel but it's no problem for me, I keep two blades for it, one for rough studwork and a fine cut one for skirting etc.

 

[Gragson]

If you already have bandsaw for steel (& ones that are portable) - why bother with a multi-process blade for a Mitre Saw?
Seems to me you already have decicated kit for cutting steel, that will do that job better & quieter already

I think you're spot on - heart over head....

as the evo discs will fit in most saws

I might do that, can't find an evo multi material at 12" but might get something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281921032276 "in case" but likely I will always use my goto stuff for metal, but you never know

i have a nice makita chopsaw it only gets used on new wood acurate work. i have other saws i use for crappy stuff so it doest matter if the woods gritty or hits a nail

This is a good shout, was going to flog the 10" Ferm chop for pennies but will hang onto it for crappy stuff like you say.

Thanks everyone for the replies, appreciated.
Will go with the 12" Lumberjack for wood rather than the Evo and compromise on a fair few things.

Ordered

 

[gaz1]

its a rage blade 10" instead of 12"

Evolution Multi-Material Saw Blade 355mm x 25.4mm 36T - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Allows saws to easily slice through steel, aluminium and wood, even nail-embedded wood. Featuring a hardened blade body which ensures the blade runs for longer. Fast, efficient cuts and high-grade carbide teeth for increased durability. Suitable for the most robust...

www.screwfix.com

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Power-Tools-Multi-Purpose-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B003OJ7P16/ref=asc_df_B003OJ7P16/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=231905005622&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5270063086376921273&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046689&hvtargid=pla-423311589981&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

 

[gaz1]

i use the rage blades more with cutting the floorboards for pull up and also when cutting pallets up on a chopsaw

with just normal wood you can use the same blade but a proper wood blade is best in a chopsaw

 

[MattF]

but might get something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281921032276 "in case" but likely I will always use my goto stuff for metal, but you never know

Trojan X-tension.

 

[Gragson]

Trojan X-tension.

I wonder if it's strap on

 

[leadpig]

i have the evolution, the wood cuts are ok, steel cuts are ok to be honest it only gets used for cutting wood with nails in
my my has the big scheppach from screwfix, way better for wood