Mig or Tig? For Car Rust Repair + Steel Flare/Body Kit.

[KASINOINC]

Hi All,

I am new, and i know nothing (sure ive spent months researching..but the more knowledge ive gained..the more indecisive ive become).

My "Introduction" in the new members thread, explains where i am at.

I have a pretty simple question..

If i was the BEST Custom Car builder/Fabricator In the World..(without the use of machinery) WHAT type of welder would i be using to do steel flares/bodykits, and rust repairs on a 1976 Bedford Van? (old..and metal is thin..i dont know what guage etc..hence why im here asking questions).

Im asking this for 2 reasons...

1/ Id like to choose a course that will be specific to my needs.
2/ Id like to buy a welder that forfills my needs.

I realise that Mig is easier...and id like to stress, im NOT looking for easy. Im looking for BEST possible outcome. Imagine if you like, im a naturally gifted welder who could do ANY type perfectly...Which is best?

I appreciate any help. Ill attach a picture of a kind of "Mock-up" of my van as it is. I wont bore everyone with the story, as ive expressed the history in my into, as i said earlier. But this will give you a visual of what i hope to achieve.

ALSO If possible, when you see the mock flares...could you give me your oppinion regarding wether this type of steel flare needs "frame" or wether sheet steel welded to body, moulded as per pic, will be strong enough and ok (ive seen other DIY'ers in other forums who construct a kind of frame and weld the sheets to the frame).

Thanks

 

[langy]

Mig for what your doing is favourite, they both have their uses, one question can you already TIG weld ??? Not everyone can pick it up

 

[Piero]

Tig in the right hands can't be beaten.

As yr question asks, if you was the best welder in the world, looking to do the best job, you would be using tig.

 

[grim_d]

For general sheet steel work I don't see much benefit to using TIG unless there is a specific requirement for watertightness using thin sheet, the gas and consumables are more expensive and the skill level is much higher than that of MIG, although I haven't tried it myself.

 

[mike 109444]

Welcome Kasinonic. Reading your intro looks like you have had a tought time sofar. Any way ref your rear arches to try and scratch make them won't be easy with basic tools but it might be worth taking some rough measurments and taking a look around car/truck parks at maybe some pickup/ 4x4 types and (with tape measure in hand) see if there might be some wings from an "ordnary" car that could be cut/moddied which would be cheeper and more readley available. Same may apply to the skirting. Mig would be the way to go. Keep us all updated. Plenty of support on here

 

[octo0072000]

Cf van forum

might be an idea to join this lot they are Aus based
the long wheel base 35cwt CF van was twin wheeled at the rear with glass fibre archs

http://www.buga.com.au/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=23

 

[hotrodder]

Hi All,

I have a pretty simple question..

If i was the BEST Custom Car builder/Fabricator In the World..(without the use of machinery) WHAT type of welder would i be using to do steel flares/bodykits, and rust repairs on a 1976 Bedford Van? (old..and metal is thin..i dont know what guage etc..hence why im here asking questions).

Im asking this for 2 reasons...

1/ Id like to choose a course that will be specific to my needs.
2/ Id like to buy a welder that forfills my needs.

I realise that Mig is easier...and id like to stress, im NOT looking for easy. Im looking for BEST possible outcome. Imagine if you like, im a naturally gifted welder who could do ANY type perfectly...Which is best?

There isn't a best welding process, pros and cons to all of 'em. From the bit i've highlighted in bold... those circumstances would have me leaning towards oxy acetylene personally as it's MUCH more than just a welder- very useful for heat shrinking and metalshaping in general, especially when there's a shortage of metalshaping machinery

The naturally gifted welder would probably reach for the MIG. For coachwork the welding is the easy and quick bit. A gifted metalshaper would be reaching for either the oxy or TIG... not becasue they're better processes but because they offer more to someone capable of and wanting to metalfinish the welds.

Relatively speaking MIG welds are huge, ugly (and more importantly) hard things. The approach with MIG is typically to stick the thing together with overlapping spot welds or short stitches and grind the excess weld away before skimming with filler. Oxy fuel welds can be smaller and (more importantly) are softer. This means they can be dressed out with hammers and dollies which is handy as the reason they're softer is because oxy is a hot, slow process resulting in more distortion. If you're a **** hot panel beater the extra distortion isn't a big deal but the extra 'workability' of the welds is a huge advantage. TIG falls somewhere in the middle... more distortion than MIG, less than with oxy and while the welds are workable with hammers/dollies they're not quite as workable as oxy fuel welds. Biggest drawback to TIG for this sort of work is that it's the least tolerant of dirty metal and of the three is the one requiring the most precise control- as Langy said not everyone can pick it up