- Thread starter Hutcho
- Start date
Tried that lol - as tight as it will go it’s still pulling through
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,425
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
Is it working properly?...it does get better as the reel gets smaller with less inertia
You've wired the relay incorrectly
You need a single pole changeover relay.
Step 1, fit the relay and provide power to it so it that the relay energises when the torch is pressed (you could wire the relay coil in parallel with the gas solenoid if they are of the same voltage).
Once you get the relay clicking, wire the motor up to the relay contacts. The wiring should be like below. It's important that the common contact goes to the motor, the N/O (Normally Open) contact goes to the speed controller and the N/C (Normally Closed) contact goes to the opposite side of the motor. Get it wrong and there is a good chance you will fry the controller because you will provide a dead short to it instead of the motor.
D
No that'll be fine, just use one of the poles or parallel them (common - common, N/O - N/O, N/C - N/NC). DPDT I normally associate with toggle switches, the relay equivalent would be a dpco - double pole changeover though dpdt and spdt are common as well. It's all part of history and some use is hard to forget. I still use squiggly lines when I draw a resistor as well
No that'll be fine, just use one of the poles or parallel them (common - common, N/O - N/O, N/C - N/NC). DPDT I normally associate with toggle switches, the relay equivalent would be a dpco - double pole changeover though dpdt and spdt are common as well. It's all part of history and some use is hard to forget. I still use squiggly lines when I draw a resistor as wel
So doing it like how the sip mods is done is wrong and that’s why it took the fuse and tranny with it , I basically fed the motor power through the relay when it’s switched on and then when off it’s just the motor and then shorted itNo that'll be fine, just use one of the poles or parallel them (common - common, N/O - N/O, N/C - N/NC). DPDT I normally associate with toggle switches, the relay equivalent would be a dpco - double pole changeover though dpdt and spdt are common as well. It's all part of history and some use is hard to forget. I still use squiggly lines when I draw a resistor as well
Yes bud to much stick out - bloody sticks to the weld so have to arc again to get it off - only pot is for the speed adjustment
Set it on power setting 1 and did it so it was just crawling on speed control
That's another way of doing it with the DPCO (DPDT) relay you have
If you wired it like that it shouldn't have burnt anything out. Make sure that the pin layout on the bottom of your relay is exactly as in the diagram.
Set your test meter to lowest ohms/continuity range) and check that Common - Normally Closed is 0 ohms and that common Normally/Open is 0L or open circuit. Do this for both pairs of contact.
Then, with the relay energised, e.g. if it's a 12V relay, connect 12V across the coil test Common - Normally Open is 0 Ohms and Common Normally Closed is 0L or open circuit.
This is the only reliable way to find out if the contacts are as shown (unless you have a part number and datasheet). If your relay has the N/O and N/C contacts reversed in respect to the diagram above, you will
the speed controller. This will permanently solve your burn back problems at the expense of not feeding any wire Thanks mate , I know what I done wrong , I’ve just gone to it and looked at it and thought you daft bugger I’ve got the motor ( common) and power wrong way round ( muppet) but to be double sure I used the two unused contacts on contactor and put positive feed for motor and pcb through it and it’s working brill - yet again DSR Thankyou , you guys are brill and I owe a few pints out .That's another way of doing it with the DPCO (DPDT) relay you have
If you wired it like that it shouldn't have burnt anything out. Make sure that the pin layout on the bottom of your relay is exactly as in the diagram.
Set your test meter to lowest ohms/continuity range) and check that Common - Normally Closed is 0 ohms and that common Normally/Open is 0L or open circuit. Do this for both pairs of contact.
Then, with the relay energised, e.g. if it's a 12V relay, connect 12V across the coil test Common - Normally Open is 0 Ohms and Common Normally Closed is 0L or open circuit.
This is the only reliable way to find out if the contacts are as shown (unless you have a part number and datasheet). If your relay has the N/O and N/C contacts reversed in respect to the diagram above, you will
