Hood
I am obsessed.
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Depends, sometimes when they come already fitted they can be ancient and as technology moves on a cheap Chinese one may actually be better.
- Thread starter Cato
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Cato
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A couple of options from eBay. If I could have your thoughts it will help me work out what options I have.
1) Boxford AUD £750
2) Boxford CUD £1500
3) Colchester Bantam £1495
4) Raglan Little John £950 (inc delivery)
1) Boxford AUD £750
2) Boxford CUD £1500
3) Colchester Bantam £1495
4) Raglan Little John £950 (inc delivery)
Johnnybravo
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New Warco
I wouldn’t touch a new one with a barge pole. Retired friend of mine bought a new one for hobby use. Was supposed to replace his old Boxford. After a years ownership and definetly not having been abused or overused, it was more worn out than the 25 year old Boxford…. New Warco ‘s are absolute rubbish
Agroshield
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Comments below specifically related to your desire for a metric lathe.
The AUD is native metric, so should have metric dials. It is a gearbox machine, so should cut all metric threads as delivered. If you wanted to cut imperial threads, you would need one or more change gears. Worth looking at the manual to see what you need and how much they would cost and ask the seller what if anything is included.
The CUD is native metric, again it should have metric dials. It is a change gear machine, so roughly speaking you need a set of change gears for each metric thread you cut, as well as different gears for imperial threads. If it only comes with the gears that are bolted on under the cover just now, that would limit its thread cutting ability and might be a less desirable route than the machine above. Again, look in the manual to see what you need and ask the seller what is included.
The Bantam is a native imperial machine with dual dials (the screwcutting plate for metric uses a 120-127 gear).
It is not clear from the photos or description if the Raglan has any metric qualities to it. Given it has a thread dial indicator, there is a reasonable chance that it is 100% imperial.
The AUD is native metric, so should have metric dials. It is a gearbox machine, so should cut all metric threads as delivered. If you wanted to cut imperial threads, you would need one or more change gears. Worth looking at the manual to see what you need and how much they would cost and ask the seller what if anything is included.
The CUD is native metric, again it should have metric dials. It is a change gear machine, so roughly speaking you need a set of change gears for each metric thread you cut, as well as different gears for imperial threads. If it only comes with the gears that are bolted on under the cover just now, that would limit its thread cutting ability and might be a less desirable route than the machine above. Again, look in the manual to see what you need and ask the seller what is included.
The Bantam is a native imperial machine with dual dials (the screwcutting plate for metric uses a 120-127 gear).
It is not clear from the photos or description if the Raglan has any metric qualities to it. Given it has a thread dial indicator, there is a reasonable chance that it is 100% imperial.
Cato
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Thanks, that's very helpful.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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I've just got round to fitting a DRO to my Boxford, fivecyears after buying it
My first experience of using it (and my first experience of any DRO) was WOW!
Pete.
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I've just got round to fitting a DRO to my Boxford, fivecyears after buying it
My first experience of using it (and my first experience of any DRO) was WOW!
You should have had a go on mine when you visited - could have wowed yourself years ago
Dr.Al
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I've never used a DRO on a lathe, but I'd definitely be tempted at some point: I wouldn't use a mill without one. I've got a "Trav-a-dial" for my lathe, which gives an analogue read-out of carriage position. If I didn't have that, I'd have fitted a DRO a long time ago.
Having said that, I'd still want a metric lathe. The handwheel dials would be largely irrelevant with a DRO fitted (I don't think I've even glanced at the mill dials since I finished installing & checking the DRO on the mill). However, having a metric leadscrew makes thread cutting far easier (if, like me, 98% of all threads you cut are metric). Unless I'm very much mistaken, a DRO doesn't help with that. For the extremely infrequent occasions when I cut an imperial thread, it's not that much of a hardship to leave the half-nuts engaged, but I'd rather not have to do it on every thread I cut.
Having said that, I'd still want a metric lathe. The handwheel dials would be largely irrelevant with a DRO fitted (I don't think I've even glanced at the mill dials since I finished installing & checking the DRO on the mill). However, having a metric leadscrew makes thread cutting far easier (if, like me, 98% of all threads you cut are metric). Unless I'm very much mistaken, a DRO doesn't help with that. For the extremely infrequent occasions when I cut an imperial thread, it's not that much of a hardship to leave the half-nuts engaged, but I'd rather not have to do it on every thread I cut.
Cato
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That's where I'm coming from with wanting a metric machine. The vast majority of threads I'd need to cut would be metric.
The DRO info and suggestions are useful because I'd never considered it. I guess it's one of those things that you don't miss if you haven't used one, but wonder how you coped without once you have.
Keeping my eye out for a metric machine with or without a DRO with the intention of adding one if it doesn't.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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The ability to turn to a diameter by reducing to zero makes life a doddle. I can't wait to play with it some more.You should have had a go on mine when you visited - could have wowed yourself years ago
Cato
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It's all Greek to me, but sounds like it's good.
Pete.
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What model did you get? Mine allows you to measure tapers. Very handy.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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It was bought from EMS-i, who are part of AMTS (NW) Ltd. They have been absolutely fantastic helping me with display instability problem that I had, even after 5 years. I'm not sure if it can measure a taper however, it should make setting up my TTA an absolute doddle.
