Mask settings

[mike os]

How dark should you set an auto mask?

for mig and tig, I have always worked on " i can see the work & it's not so bright it hurts to look at" usually 9-11

Is this the only approach? am I doing it all wrong & ******ing up what remains of my sight? are there any "recommended" settings?

Obviously this was never a problem in the dark ages.

 

[Iain Westland]

i USE 10 / 11, if its too dark I get some light on it. Mig only

iain

 

[Bsmith]

I have mine about 10 too. Don't know about recommended settings, I often set mine with left hand while I weld with right.

 

[hotrodder]

With auto darkening masks the UV/IR protection is independent of shade settings i.e. on/off, passive state or darkened you have protection to whatever level the lens offers, typically equivalent to shade 13 or 14. There are charts around giving recommended shade vs process and amperage but everyone's eyes are different and ambient lighting makes quite a difference. Just set the shade so you can see what you're doing

Delay settings determine how quickly the lens switches off i.e min delay can leave you staring at a white hot weld/tungsten, max delay will keep it dark a bit longer after breaking the arc but can be irritatingly slow when doing lots of tacking

Sensitivity alters what the mask reacts too, max sensitivity usually needed for low amp TIG/restricted view of pool but depending on what else is going on in the area might result in a mask that darkens if you look up, stay dark if working outside or be set off by other welders etc

 

[mike os]

so... pretty much as I thought:- they all offer sufficient basic protection, the rest being largely a comfort & workability issue?

 

[hotrodder]

Assuming the ANSI/CE marks were actually earned rather than added because everyone elses's masks have them then yes paying more generally buys a mask that's nicer to use rather than safer.

Some masks for example aren't rated for TIG below 50A (may or may not respond to low amp/partially hidden arc), there's different optical classes (another 3 or 4 standards covering clarity, shade consistancy across the screen etc), think cheap nasty sunglasses versus something from the likes of Oakley, Bolle etc.

Weight and headgear usually improve with price but not always- Speedglas for example... fantastic lens, neat design that directs your breath and makes them very 'fresh and airy' but the headgear's **** (without a sweatband on the top hoop it rips out clumps of hair and is generally fragile although the latest version looks much improved at least from the hair pulling pov). Still wouldn't swap mine for any other auto lens, only a fixed shade gold lens for certain jobs