Manifold repair.

[Rrunnach]

Wasn't sure where to put this, as is it more a general question. I have an old RR manifold for repair. My thinking is arc will be difficult to cold weld, also part being a high heat component, cold welding may not be suitable, peening too, would be awkward.

I have successfully completed similar manifold repairs, where I brazed or bronze welded, which is my preferred method for RR manifold.

I'm curious to hear how others would approach this repair, process used etc?

I've added pics for clarity. As you can see, manifold is fixed to flat plate, which will require to remain during hot work, areas cracked, marked in red.

 

[roofman]

i bet it goes again or pulls apart during being buttoned down....ive been known to be wrong though

 

[Tigman]

I would " V " that out and arc weld it slowly and peen as you go , leave the weld proud for extra strength ! thats the way I would tackle it , but brasing is fine too !

 

[doubleboost]

I would V it out a good bit pre heat then bronze weld with tig

 

[Bill Edwards]

Another for V it out and MMA weld it with proper cast rods.
Keep it cool enough to keep your hand on and peen it as it cools, I don't see it being particularly difficult - you just need to be slow and patient.

For any brazing you'd have to heat the whole thing up evenly, don't attempt to only heat one area.

 

[Rrunnach]

Yes, I need to dismantle and prep material, I used my last 60/40 rods last week, unless I can borrow a rod or two locally, I'll braze manifold. I did one similar late last year for an old Jag, which was brazed, motor still going strong. Better lucky than good!

Cheers for your input.....

 

[Shox Dr]

I'm with DB, TIG with SIF No8, it would give the repair a degree of moment as well.

 

[brightspark]

id v it out heat it up all over witha propane torch and braze it with oxy acet torch. depends on what u have available and are happy to use

 

[Wedg1e]

I'd be tempted to bin the whole lot and fit fabricated manifolds... as that's what's on the Rover V8 in my TVR. There must be plenty of people making them.

 

[Rrunnach]

To bin is not my call, I'll look at my options today........cheers.

 

[Wallace]

If that was on my bench I would be finding out why it broke in the first place by first checking the head faces are flat and level then the same with the manifold. With the kit I have; shot blast the repair area, vee prep, pre-heat whole manifold with O/A and Tig Bronze braze trying desperately not to braze the manifold to the plate it's bolted on! If not too big for my mill I would re-face all the surfaces with a fly cutter.

 

[Rrunnach]

Job a good un. I found some Eutectic Castolin Cast rods, which I used with good results. Removed from fixing plated to prep. Then back on to fix/plate, tacked on broken parts, then removed from fix/plate.

I was fortunate manifold fitted our rod oven, which was horsed up it max of 300c. Left it for seems like an age, occasional check with tempil stick. Although set at 300c, could only get 250c using stick. Removed and welded.

Back into oven for a loooooooooooooooooong, slow, post heat. With all the phaffing around, I clean forgot to take post pics, which I'm annoyed at, plus manifold is now with the couriers!

Cheers.

BTW, manifold belongs to a rare edition 1950 RR.

 

[Tigman]

nice one !

 

[Farside]

BTW, manifold belongs to a rare edition 1950 RR.

Wondered why it was so crude. Thought you were talking Range Rover.

 

[John Bellamy]

I would recommend chemically welding using SupaFix for the sake of a tenner. Ive used it on alloy crank and cracked engine blocks and it repaired it everytime.

You can pick it up at your local BOC by the way.
Worth a Try!

 

[Rrunnach]

I'm old school. Why use blue tack, when you can do a proper weld repair!!

 

[John Bellamy]

I'm old school. Why use blue tack, when you can do a proper weld repair!!

Im just saying I've used it and its crazy strong fast and easy. Its Blu Tack by the way

 

[Rrunnach]

It does look interesting stuff, do you think it is suitable for a high expansion/contraction area, such as a manifold, serious question?

 

[John Bellamy]

It does look interesting stuff, do you think it is suitable for a high expansion/contraction area, such as a manifold, serious question?

Im not sure to be honest as I've not used it on a manifold but it seems to set just like a weld so like any weld its brittle if shocked hard so if its expanding and contracting it may crack it but on a rocker cover and engine block it was perfect for that.
Im the same as you and always prefer to MIG it but i have to say I was impressed with this after the manager at BOC told me about it.