So guys what sort of setup is required to make exhausts? the welding seems fairly straight forward as welding goes but what about the pipe bending ? would one of them manual press benders (the jack and former ones) do the Job? would it require a great big exspensive rotary bender? I think i recall reading somewhere if you use thick wall pipe the manual bender will do it but if you use thin wall then it will crease or split ?
- Thread starter Varanus
- Start date
Furry Freak
Member
- Messages
- 300
I don't know about doing this commercially, but I just buy the components from Jetex and make them up myself - for one offs, that is. They do all the bits you need. And they are quick too! IF you are setting up to make exhausts for other people then I guess that you could do the same. They do stainless components too. Making a manifold would be quite a different thing, but perhaps a little more detail on quite what you mean would be helpful.
FF
FF
With regards to tube bending there's more to consider than just wall thickness- material (including temper), centre line radius (CLR) and wall factor (tube OD divided by wall thickness) for example.
Search the site, there's several threads on the subject as well some info on/links to home made rotary draw compression benders. Search for some posts by 'Blackjack' too, several good posts on the subject by him.
Without suitable bending kit you can work with pre-formed mandrel bends (even cleaner bends but more importantly for many applications much tighter radius bends) as mentioned a few posts back. Another method is segmented/lobsterback bends, used quite a bit for 2 stroke exhausts working with cones as well as/instead of straight tube to form expansion chambers
Search the site, there's several threads on the subject as well some info on/links to home made rotary draw compression benders. Search for some posts by 'Blackjack' too, several good posts on the subject by him.
Without suitable bending kit you can work with pre-formed mandrel bends (even cleaner bends but more importantly for many applications much tighter radius bends) as mentioned a few posts back. Another method is segmented/lobsterback bends, used quite a bit for 2 stroke exhausts working with cones as well as/instead of straight tube to form expansion chambers
RS100, front pipe is a pretty straight forward bend, then you have a silencer. The snag there is the internals.
Reproducing exhauists for jap 2 strokes is a bit of a mission, and often more a matter of metal shaping than bending, but for making the silencer bit this has some potential...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_Z3AIFSd60
Even if it's just the potential to seriously injure yourself.
Reproducing exhauists for jap 2 strokes is a bit of a mission, and often more a matter of metal shaping than bending, but for making the silencer bit this has some potential...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_Z3AIFSd60
Even if it's just the potential to seriously injure yourself.
Sid
Member
- Messages
- 269
Even if it's just the potential to seriously injure yourself.
If you inflated with a gas I'd agree, but the compressed fluid stores little energy, so if the item fails (as it does in the video), the results are harmless.
Gas would store energy, and release itself quickly. Wouldn't want to stand too close to that.
I'd seen something similar on the Euo Spares site but using a hand oerated pump.
The difference is that with the hand operated pump, if you get a pin hole since the fliud isn't compressible, then you more or less lose pressure immediately it starts leaking. Yeah, I nkow that water does compress very slightly and so on, but to all practical intents and purposes, that's what would happen.
With a pressure washer you have a narrow jet of water under high pressure.
You wouldn't want to stand to close to that either...
