Been thinking about building a linisher so been to the scrappies and got 2 electric motor rotors and bearings. The rotors are approx 120mm long by 75mm dia. I am hoping to make the linisher rollers from them. I notice on the bay 100 x 915 sanding belts appear to be a common size so was thinking about making the linisher to suit this size of belt. I have a 2.2kw 2,800rpm motor which I hope would drive the unit. Can someone tell me what the ideal roller rpm would be please? Many thanks, Brian.
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brightspark
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u would have to gear that well down to about 1450 rpm
brightspark
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julianf
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I have a unit that i was given. The table / rollers etc are off-the-shelf, but the motor has been added by a wood-worker, and is held on with a large door hinge, and a length of bicycle inner tube to tension it.
It works, to a fashion, but i want to re-do it.
On your builds, do you tension the belt by just bolting the motor down the correct distance away, and everything is static thereafter?
It works, to a fashion, but i want to re-do it.
On your builds, do you tension the belt by just bolting the motor down the correct distance away, and everything is static thereafter?
mfletch
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Here's my effort http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/small-belt-sander.44497/
[QUOTE="julianf,
On your builds, do you tension the belt by just bolting the motor down the correct distance away, and everything is static thereafter?[/QUOTE]
On most items I have built where an electric motor and vee belts are being used, I have the motor fastening plate with elongated holes. Each of the four mounting holes are 3 or 4 holes drilled in a line then what's left filed out then 2 nuts welded on top of the plate with bolts through to the motor base for tightening the belts.
Come to think of it, under my compressor motor I put a plate with holes the same as the motor base and 2 pieces of threaded rod welded on which go through 2 lugs welded on the plate with elongated holes then 2 nuts for tightening the belts.
On your builds, do you tension the belt by just bolting the motor down the correct distance away, and everything is static thereafter?[/QUOTE]
On most items I have built where an electric motor and vee belts are being used, I have the motor fastening plate with elongated holes. Each of the four mounting holes are 3 or 4 holes drilled in a line then what's left filed out then 2 nuts welded on top of the plate with bolts through to the motor base for tightening the belts.
Come to think of it, under my compressor motor I put a plate with holes the same as the motor base and 2 pieces of threaded rod welded on which go through 2 lugs welded on the plate with elongated holes then 2 nuts for tightening the belts.
outofthefire
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Have a search of British blades forum there are a lot of builds on there.
Maker
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A KMG grinder has surface speeds of either 900, 1800 or 3600 feet/min. To achive this with your 75mm diameter rotor you would need RPMs of 1150, 2300 and 3450 respectively. Direct drive from your motor will give a surface speed of 2600 feet/min and the rule of thumb for belt grinders is 1 HP for 2 inches of belt width so your 3 HP motor will be good for upto 6 inches wide.
Maker
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Quite a high speed for removing scale and stock removal, quite a low speed for finishing, making things shiney. If you build it to use a stepped pulley then you can easily change speeds.
lchris21
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mine was similar to the 3rd pic in brightsparks post. due to lack of space I converted it to direct drive and made up a vertical mount frame out of some angle. used the switch off an old pedestal drill to run it. works a treat. been meaning to get a guard on the coupling for ages 
Maker
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I just spotted the belt tensioner at the end in the third picture, that's a really clever idea
.
brightspark
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if u look at icris 21 post of his bought linisher that he altered i copied them of that design 40 years agoI just spotted the belt tensioner at the end in the third picture, that's a really clever idea
i must have some chinese ancestory
brightspark
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the 6inch sander rollers are from solid round bar machined up. the 4 inch sander uses steel tube with welded in end caps
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I've heard of people casting alu' in bean cans, machining it smooth and boring it to accept a bearing to make the rollers. Also heard of people rolling flat bar (or sheet for wider rollers) into rings and welding bars on each end to hold bearings.
