M19 x 1.5 Thread Data

[Onoff]

Evening,

Would anyone have a link to M19x1.5 thread data? I've seen M19x1.6 go/no go rings but am after the data. Want to 3D print some custom dash cam mounts to do away with the suction cups.

Cheers

 

[Hood]

This what you are after?

 

[Pete.]

Wouldn't that be a 3/4" 16tpi?

3/4" UNF - metric equivalent 19.05mm 1.5875mm pitch.

 

[hotponyshoes]

I have only done a couple of 3d printed threads so far but I kind of invent my own dimensions based off the sort of thing above. I find a square/flat root and peak at half the nozzle dia seems to print best.
I have only been doing blanking covers and stuff so far rather than anything functional.

 

[Hopefuldave]

I've been printing threaded bushes etc. for a while (e.g. M20x1.5 to PG21 etc.), I have to slightly enlarge internal threads to get them to fit - it may be my printer, it seems to be about 1% undersize in X and Y (although Z's fine, so thread pitches come out right).
Go with the smallest layer thickness that produces a print before you give up in disgust, 0.1mm gives nice-looking threads with convincing profiles of 1.0 - 2mm pitches.

I use a proper cad package (TurboCAD Pro) to generate my stl files and Repetier to render to G-Code, so as long as I'm happy with 60-degree threads it does it for me (Whitworth I have to do a "helical sweep" of the 55-degree form at the diameter and pitch I want, a right pain).




Dave H. (the other one)

 

[Onoff]

Cheers all. Woke up this morning and my lad seems to have sussed it judging by the prototype left next to the printer. It's only to make a better mount for a cheapo dash cam. I'll post pics as it progresses.

 

[hotponyshoes]

I normally print a 10mm or so test ring to check the thread. If it's too bi or too small I scale it in the design software. Once correct I build the rest of the model around it.The slicer software also has a scale function so if I print a model and it's too tight I normally find scaling up or down by 2% is fine but that obviously scales the whole item not just the threaded part although it would not be an issue for the bits i have done so far.

 

[Onoff]

@Pete.'s UNF seemed to be the one. Printed with the spherical hollow but thinking a bit tight - it snapped! I think tbh the hollow for the sphere needs to be a tad smaller. Only done in PLA so far. Won't be any good in the car in Summer mind. Try again!

 

[garethp]

@Pete.'s UNF seemed to be the one. Printed with the spherical hollow but thinking a bit tight - it snapped! I think tbh the hollow for the sphere needs to be a tad smaller. Only done in PLA so far. Won't be any good in the car in Summer mind. Try again!

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One of my mates had similar issues with the same joint type snapping, changing from PLA to PETG was the solution as its got a bit more flex to it.

 

[Wedg1e]

I did a 2" x 12 tpi in ABS to plug the nose of an artillery shell and it worked once I'd tickled it in the lathe - it was a bit on the tight side to start with and I thought it'd shear. Good fun trying to pick up the root with the threading tool (big magnifier...).