LR 90 footwells

[Cobbler]

Hi all, I know there are many LR enthusiasts on here, I am after a bit of advice please. My son has just bought an ex MOD 90 fitted with a V6 Essex lump in. I have managed to repair one footwell with a struggle, the other needs a bit more major surgery! The rot extends up into the double skinned area, what is the best way to repair this in situ? I can make panels for the inside & make a strong repair, but will not make a very tidy job outside. What do other people do please.

Also anyone got any experience of a Landy with this engine conversion, seems like a well done set up, I've looked on the web & it appears to be a conversion done often on series ones. Should be good for the traffic light grand prix I reckon, pass anything but a petrol station!

Thanks for the info in advance.

Cobbler

 

[Luke]

Are you aware of http://www.yrmlandrover.com?

They might have some ready made sections that might help?

 

[Cobbler]

Hi Luke,
Thanks for your prompt reply, I've had a look at the ready made footwells on the link, at the moment the rust is not serious enough to require complete footwells, I can make patches up easily but access to the outside is so tight. It maybe easier to cut the lot out & start again, this is why I asked what others did.

Cobbler

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

I'm prety sure forum member mowersman has a couple of defender/90 footwells, Give him a PM

 

[madkayaker]

If the rot is not that bad then I use a piece of Ali and tiger glue as its a none structural area (especially if you put mats in before mot) the ford v6 was a common conversion in series not come accross one in a defender but there was conversion plates available so must be common

 

[stormin]

Wasnt the V6 like the V8 conversions where it requires the footwells modifying anyway or was it short enough not to need it?

If you are talking about the double skinned area on the lower footwell just above the floor level I would say it's best to get rid of it altogether as it just acts as a rust trap. It's only purpose is to stiffen the footwell against heavy footed passengers. Better to replace it with one thicker sheet of metal in my opinion with out the rust trap.

 

[Cobbler]

Hi everyone, thanks for the replies, I thought that to cut out the double skin might be the answer, just a pain getting in to cut it. The sides are all good, the part that has gone is the flat part that the ally floor fixes to & about 2" up the angled kickboard, the edges are ok to make flanges to weld to.

With regard to previous post, the V6 fits in with feet to spare at the front, looks like it drops on the original mounts, I hope so as the long term plan is to fit a tdi back in, if the mounts were moved it was a very good job as no signs exist of the original position.

The exhaust is well knackered, this will be a bit of a headache when replacement is required, it looks like a cut down Grenada or Capri system.

 

[madkayaker]

Engine choice will be determined by the gearbox. If it was a oil burner originally then it would have been a 2.5NA which will allow the fitting of a 200tdi with a bit of work to make it fit. Discovers a a good source for engines as they rot fast!

 

[stormin]

Steve Parker Land Rovers use to be the Ford V6 conversion specialist.
Last time I was in his shop which is local to me albeit a few years ago he still had stacks of stuff on the shelves for his various conversion kits. He also used to manufacture custom exhausts so may be worth a call.

 

[Cobbler]

Hi M.K. it was an oiler, I don't know the history why it was changed though, ex RAF airfield vehicle as it was canary yellow, 24 volt electrics at one time, though now 12 volts and relays everywhere. Chassis is good, only rust is footwell, just looks scruffy.

Cobbler

Stormin, just seen your reply, I think my son is going to speak to them about the exhaust, looked on the LR forum, it looks like it was a good conversion on s111's

 

[madkayaker]

Mine was a 110FFR oil burner 12/24V but the two systems were separate unlike the series 24V

 

[Cobbler]

Hi M.K, both system could have been separate, there is a 24 volt warning light on the dash.

Cobbler

 

[madkayaker]

Sounds normal. I have seen a24v warning light on civi landys as well. The 24V battery's were charged through a shunt regulator box that was connected to the 24v generator. If its been RAF give the chassis a good wax oiling as runway de icing stuff is nasty for steel

 

[gav0994]

I can make patches up easily but access to the outside is so tight. It maybe easier to cut the lot out & start again, this is why I asked what others did.

Cobbler

The front wings on landy's are held on with about 8 bolts/screws and come off fairly easily. Once removed, along with the front wheel you will have plenty of access to cut out any rot and repair the footwell. At the same time you will be able to have a better look at the bulkhead and tops of chassis rails around the engine bay.

It will save alot of effing and blinding trying to do it with the wing still in situ!

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

Were the 90 wings still held with acme bolts onto the bulkhead?

 

[madkayaker]

Yes

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

In that case, They'll probably shear off at the sight of a spanner so be careful.