As @Dapph2 said make sure the covers are good ones and not plastic pots! 50w halogen spot lights are fire starters and the reason the wiring regs got an update a couple of years ago to prevent this.the moisture will still get into the loft, can you pull one down, and see if you can add a plantpot / pot noodle pot?
Yep their in Crosby not far from the docksIf the house is above a certain height, subject to Westerly winds carrying moisture you will have this issue, irrespective of any "leaks" from below. Absolutely they should vent the house every day, mornings are good, but really a dehumidifier is a must between Oct and March. You can vent the loft all you like, if the air coming through is laden with moisture you will, from time to time get condensation up there.
Dont know how old you are matey, but a 1970,s home is not classed as old ...it was just after this era that the troubles started with the double glazing boom with plastic and aluminium windows. A house needs to breath as its a living entity with all the occupants in it...classic case is the fashion of removing chimney pots and capping the stacks resulting in the mid-feathers (inside brickwork) becoming dripping wet.As the owner of an old, draughty home, built early 70's, they most definitely can suffer from condensation.
When we moved in, my other half insisted it was just cold – I remember taking a shirt I had just taken out of a built-in wardrobe, were the back was an outside wall, and asking her if the water dripping from one side of it where it had touched the wall was “just cold?” - that wall I later discovered had two layers of stuck on polystyrene foam, so previous owners were obviously aware.
Cavity wall insulation (dry) with a foot or more of loft insulation (I think done for free for the previous elderly owners).
The bitumen roofing felt was dipping with condensation – the roofing timbers were stained from being wet in many previous years.
There was some soffit ventilation – the builder had closed most of the gaps by bricking on top of the wall plate between the rafters! In the gables each end of the main part (T-shaped house) there was a double air brick.
I had tile vents fitted – some low down, some high up.
I’ve not seen condensation on the felt since.
Its old enough to have fed several generations at least of wood worm. That's how I spotted the condensation, spraying all the timbers with suitable stuff. I guess 55 isn't old old - but it was certainly draughty. When the wind blew in the right direction, you could hear and feel it blow out around an internal door frame between living room and bedroom (its a bungalow).Dont know how old you are matey, but a 1970,s home is not classed as old ...it was just after this era that the troubles started with the double glazing boom with plastic and aluminium windows. A house needs to breath as its a living entity with all the occupants in it...classic case is the fashion of removing chimney pots and capping the stacks resulting in the mid-feathers (inside brickwork) becoming dripping wet.
Does anyone have any advice/opinions on this particular of my post ..as in there needs to be extra insulation nearer the eaves on top of the cotton wool stuff and the thin layer of insulation..obviously stopping short of the eaves?No that's one of the things I mentioned..I cannot get right into the eaves yet but looking at it from middle there is some cotton wool type stuff laying thinly between the ceiling joists ,about 2 ft of it up to eaves then for about 5-6 ft coming back there is a layer of rockwool ,about 45 inches thick the n on top of that there a newer thick layer about 8-10 inches thick..
I would have thought the thick top layer would go almost to eaves with a small gap..not stepped down..
So I'm guessing that the whole loft space has the original 70s white cotton wool ball type stuff just between the ceiling joists,then someone's come along and put a thin layer of rock wool everywhere but stopped 2ft from the eaves..then someone's put another thicker layer on top but stopped where the roof pitch is about 2-3 ft high..stopping 5-6 ft from the eaves..probably letting heat in..
In the old days they used little kids to access awkward places, but your apparently not allowed to do that now……Does anyone have any advice/opinions on this particular of my post ..as in there needs to be extra insulation nearer the eaves on top of the cotton wool stuff and the thin layer of insulation..obviously stopping short of the eaves?
Cheers.
a stated its not old but recent built reference built within last 60 years newer builds are known as box builds wood framed internals with solid outer wallsAs the owner of an old, draughty home, built early 70's, they most definitely can suffer from condensation.
When we moved in, my other half insisted it was just cold – I remember taking a shirt I had just taken out of a built-in wardrobe, were the back was an outside wall, and asking her if the water dripping from one side of it where it had touched the wall was “just cold?” - that wall I later discovered had two layers of stuck on polystyrene foam, so previous owners were obviously aware.
Cavity wall insulation (dry) with a foot or more of loft insulation (I think done for free for the previous elderly owners).
The bitumen roofing felt was dipping with condensation – the roofing timbers were stained from being wet in many previous years.
There was some soffit ventilation – the builder had closed most of the gaps by bricking on top of the wall plate between the rafters! In the gables each end of the main part (T-shaped house) there was a double air brick.
I had tile vents fitted – some low down, some high up.
I’ve not seen condensation on the felt since.
as for insulation different sizes not bagged and ticketed by numbers to go back where they belongIts old enough to have fed several generations at least of wood worm. That's how I spotted the condensation, spraying all the timbers with suitable stuff. I guess 55 isn't old old - but it was certainly draughty. When the wind blew in the right direction, you could hear and feel it blow out around an internal door frame between living room and bedroom (its a bungalow).
Which then leads to the question - how come all the loft insulation, which covered every square inch of space, when rolled up to allow access to the ceiling support timbers, doesn't cover it when rolled back out . . . ?






