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brightspark
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like this the change wheels will be missinghttp://www.lathes.co.uk/drummondphotoessay/
rtbcomp
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What model is it? A photo would help.
The early ones had a power shaft driven by gears at the headstock end which went to the other end and drove the lead screw through a pair of gears at the tail stock end.
On mine the power shaft was missing
The early ones had a power shaft driven by gears at the headstock end which went to the other end and drove the lead screw through a pair of gears at the tail stock end.
On mine the power shaft was missing
thanks for that link, I'll have a read through it.
D'oh! I've a fair few 'cogs' missing.
What model is it? A photo would help.
The early ones had a power shaft driven by gears at the headstock end which went to the other end and drove the lead screw through a pair of gears at the tail stock end.
On mine the power shaft was missing
Hi,
All i know is that it is a drummond b type.
Just found info, via the link.
www.lathes.co.uk/DRUMMOND/
Drummond B Type circa 1912--1921. In reality, a completely new model incorporating much fresh thinking about how a small lathe should be constructed.
Pete.
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If you're going to be missing some gears, those would be the type to be missing as they are a common size to quite a few lathes. Personally I wouldn't put too much effort into restoring a B type, as a novice I'd look for a more complete and more modern lathe.
MattF
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Drummond gears had a different tooth pitch/angle to other gears. Only the Drummond gears will mesh correctly if there are any existing Drummond gears on there. Myford kept to the Drummond gear spec on their production run of the M type too.
The Drummond is more than capable of anything likely to be asked of it in a home workshop.
Last edited:
Wendelspanswick
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I started with a model B. I got a lot done with it including some left hand acme thread sluice gate mechanisms!
A lot of my gears had been damaged and had peg repairs to replace the missing teeth.
There are a lot of B's out there, might be better to buy another and make one good lathe out of two.
A lot of my gears had been damaged and had peg repairs to replace the missing teeth.
There are a lot of B's out there, might be better to buy another and make one good lathe out of two.
MattF
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With that having no gears whatsoever, you can get any make of gears for it. Just find some which either have the correct bore else bore some out to fit and you're sorted. Should be able to drop on a set of gears for something like a Myford or the like for not too much money. Trying to get hold of Drummond gears is like finding hens teeth, usually with a price tag indicative of such.
Pete.
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Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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I wouldn't use it with the motor direct-driving the spindle as in one pic, the plain spindle bearings (I assume it has) won't be happy running at silly speeds... unles you can slow the motor down or it's a slow-running motor, of course.
When I was first looking for a lathe about a dozen years ago, I looked at some real horrors, including a Myford ML4 that was being direct-driven off a washing machine motor - and it was geared UP so the spindle must have been doing about 3000rpm! Couldn't even use it for woodwork.
One of my first welding projects was a stand for the lathe I ended up with, a Mellor. To save space I devised an under-drive stand for it using a V-velt off a car that must have been 6 feet long (the belt, not the car!), to the countershaft and then good old-fashioned flat belt (with the hooked joint in it) to the spindle.
Not pretty but it worked well enough to let me take my first steps... that's the problem with machining, it's addictive
Now all I need is a Bridgeport-style mill and I'll be a happy man
When I was first looking for a lathe about a dozen years ago, I looked at some real horrors, including a Myford ML4 that was being direct-driven off a washing machine motor - and it was geared UP so the spindle must have been doing about 3000rpm! Couldn't even use it for woodwork.
One of my first welding projects was a stand for the lathe I ended up with, a Mellor. To save space I devised an under-drive stand for it using a V-velt off a car that must have been 6 feet long (the belt, not the car!), to the countershaft and then good old-fashioned flat belt (with the hooked joint in it) to the spindle.
Not pretty but it worked well enough to let me take my first steps... that's the problem with machining, it's addictive
Now all I need is a Bridgeport-style mill and I'll be a happy man
