Last hydraulic fitting size question

[CRS51]

Hello all again, is there somewhere I can find a really in depth chart with all the dimensions for various threads and hydraulic fittings ?

I have a JIC hydraulic pipe fitting that has a 5/8 UNF thread and the spanner size is 22mm so what would this be in size ? Just so I know what to ask for
Cheers Chris.

 

[zzr1200]

22 mm is a 7/8 inch AF spanner.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Parker Hannifin do a fittings catalogue that lists the various series of fittings with the sizes and dimensions etc.

 

[500e]

Or
https://www.ryco.com.au/technical/t...ication/jic-37-flare-uno-o-ring-boss-threads/

 

[normspanners]

Are you sure its 5/8 unf jic ? because that is not a std hydraulic jic thread size,-6 is 9/16"unf and -8 is 3/4"unf and doubt you will get it from a hyd place
some oil coolers used 5/8 which was dash 7

In the case of BMC "A" and "B"series engines an external oil pipe may be removed and replaced with hoses running to and from the oil cooler. "A" series have 1/4 NPTF & 5/8 UNF use HEM8-4-8 & HEM1-7-8 hose ends or suitable adapters.

and some air con stuff, but they can be goodrich type connectors, also because some metric fittings are incredibly close in dia and pitch it is easily confusing
this might help https://www.essentracomponents.com.au/1-Dash-Size.pdf

 

[CRS51]

Are you sure its 5/8 unf jic ? because that is not a std hydraulic jic thread size,-6 is 9/16"unf and -8 is 3/4"unf and doubt you will get it from a hyd place
some oil coolers used 5/8 which was dash 7


and some air con stuff, but they can be goodrich type connectors, also because some metric fittings are incredibly close in dia and pitch it is easily confusing
this might help https://www.essentracomponents.com.au/1-Dash-Size.pdf

Thanks for the info Norm, have attached pictures,
it’s from a power steering system on a 1958 Leyland truck
Chris

 

[normspanners]

They look more like parker sae flare which is slightly different to jic and have a45deg flare as apposed to jic 37 deghttps://https://www.shopcross.com/product/parker-48f-10-8-flare-male-straight-connector-58-tube-x-12-nptf but are usually brass btw but can be got with 37 flare I believe, but in reality a 37 and 45 flare will work together ! https://www.shopcross.com/product/parker-106hy-10-8-female-swivel-adapter-58-jic-x-12-hose-steel now they use 5/8 for 1/2 hose
the last ones quoted are no skive crimps which means you dont have to skive the the outer rubber off the hose before crimping on the hydraulic crimp machine
https://www.hoseassemblytips.com/need-skive-hydraulic-hose/
as you have the ends there and I quess its the hose thats knackered you can reuse the fittings and have new hose swaged onto the original ends, I did one yesterday in fact BUT you need to find a friendly hyd hose crimper, its best to go to a farming hydraulic place they tend to be 'its not correct but near enough' they mostly have a disclaimer saying WE DO NOT USE OLD OR RE END HOSES!
the way you cut off the crimps is, you have to cut the crimp with a hack saw parallel to the hose
on both sides then get it in avise and cut the bit that is crimped into the male probe then split apart with a chisel.
It is easy to say but hard to explain I have done hundreds over the years with weird hoses the male probes is squished a little anyway when crimped originally but you can usually get away with second or third use,
hydraulic places dont usually want to know because of come backs, but I used to go into my friendly place and help myself, and swage the hoses myself, I used to know their stock better than them ! I used to come out say to the girl I have had this that and the other----- BILL US .

 

[normspanners]

this is the male probe that goes into the hose, the bit that is difficult is the groove behind the nut, cutting that is critical, the ferrule is swaged into that groove in fact it is the outer ferrule digging into the hose outer where the strength is , and its that crimping it behind the groove that holds it all together !! so cutting that out is the tricky bit you dont want to damage the groove but you need to cut down into the groove, with the hacksaw square to the hose after cutting the ferrule longitudinally to relieve the pressure you have a set amount of swage to crimp the ferrule the thing is knowing how much extra crimp is needed for a used fitting a good crimper will know and uses experience!! that is the critical bit.
with this cuttaway you can see how it is formed and the function of the groove

 

[8ob]

The trouble with any hydraulic fittings is the nut size wont really tell you much, I have some JIC fittings here that are 5/16" bore (-5 ) on a 22mm nut size but have seen the same nut on a -6 (3/8"). You need the bore size as well to get what you are after. Strongly recommend Think Automotive in Isleworth, they really know their automotive hydraulic/pipe fittings.

Bob

 

[normspanners]

he trouble with any hydraulic fittings is the nut size wont really tell you much, I have some JIC fittings here that are 5/16" bore (-5 ) on a 22mm nut size but have seen the same nut on a -6 (3/8"). You need the bore size as well to get what you are after. Strongly recommend Think Automotive in Isleworth, they really know their automotive hydraulic/pipe fittings.

problem is bob jic dont use 5/8 as a std thread

 

[normspanners]

When you set up the old style crimp machine you have the dies in the crimp head and clamp it down on a solid set size bar that decides the final crimp dia, you then adjust the stop to that dimension, to reuse hose ends you slacken of crimp hydraulics and give the stop a slight turn to give slightly more . this is the modern digitall machine method
crhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9TPMTocfIsimp

 

[8ob]

Automotive seem to have adopted the flare form of jic and used their own thread. I have used 5/8" unf adapters to jic to get around the problem in the past when doing engine conversions on trucks, a nipple in the box and pump then to a standard hose. . Readily available from most decent hydrauic shops, at least when converted you can use a standard hydraulic hose. I have my own machine for munching the crimps down on hydraulic pipe, the gauge on the machine to determine pressure is a bit squiffy so I always go on measured diameter.

5/8"unf to JIC nipple






Bit dark in there

Pipe swage

 

[8ob]

This is what I am on about https://www.grainger.com/category/f...-and-fittings/plumbing/ecatalog/N-qw3Z1yzy5r8

5/8" unf threaded "JIC type" fittings that are used in hydraulics, normally on steering pipes they start off with one of the nuts on the end of a flared pipe and then the swage on a hydraulic hose.

Bob

 

[CRS51]

Thanks again for the help and information
Chris

 

[normspanners]

It does seem crazy that the automotive industry has a none std thread, though, being able to charge 5 times the price for bits is the key, I did a poclain excavator clutch hose many years ago it was £300 ish and I could not find a match was neither metric (expected) or unf turns out the french had used BSF !! for the threads so I made an adapter to unf then just made a goodridge hose up that did the job perfectly ... well better actually coz it didnt rub the chassis totally cost £15 ish was hose was still on when the machine was scrapped. Problem is knowing what fits what !

 

[Matrixx]

Find a Pirtek shop, they have all the fittings and hose's in and they will make pipes up for you there and then, and reasonably priced.
http://www.pirtek.co.uk/products/fittings

 

[normspanners]

Find a Pirtek shop, they have all the fittings and hose's in and they will make pipes up for you there and then, and reasonably priced.

thats the problem, they only usually have std jic which these arnt 5/8 isnt a jic std