Landrover series 2a restoration

[smilersmith]

I have recently began the restoration of a 1970 series 2a Landrover. My aim is to do as much of the work myself as possible. The chassis requires major work as the rear section was completely rotten. I considered buying a new galvanised chassis but thought they were way to expensive. I decided to purchase a new half chassis and do all the welding myself so I have puchased a Clarke 151 TE. I am a little apprehensive regarding the welding as I havent done any for over 30 years ! I will no doubt be on this forum asking lots of questions so please be patient with me.
My first question is should I be using 0.6 or 0.8 wire to weld the chassis which is approx 2mm thick.
Also any tips and advice would be very much appreciated.

 

[Rig Pig]

I use 0.8 for chassis work.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I'd opt for 0.8mm.
Have fun, once you've fitted the rear half chassis you can look forward to doing the front a few months later...

 

[Robotstar5]

0.8mm and you can practice on the outriggers and dumb irons first before tackling the half chassis

...and welcome to the forum from another green oval fan.

 

[pedrobedro]

I helped a friend of mine to do his 2A a few years ago now. He put it on a galvanised chassis and I wired it for him with a new loom he bought. Your next job will be to fit a 200 or 300tdi engine as the petrol engine will bankrupt you, he fitted a 200tdi. Use the .8 wire, the chassis is made of good thickness steel but if you strip the chassis make sure you stand it on end and clean all the gunk from inside, it's amazing how much stuff gets inside the rails. I helped him with a later model 2.5 TD with civilised coil suspension and he fitted a 300tdi in that. It goes well and doesn't shake your fillings out.

 

[Cobbler]

Ditto on 0.8 wire, when I did my sons, I used 0.6 because that was what I had, it made it more difficult as the wire speed had to be up so far it became a bit unmanageable. Take care because the wiring loom runs down inside the drivers side chassis to the rear lights, someone hadn't on ours as there was household flex tied to the outside for the brake lights

Cobbler

 

[octo0072000]

I have recently began the restoration of a 1970 series 2a Landrover. My aim is to do as much of the work myself as possible. The chassis requires major work as the rear section was completely rotten. I considered buying a new galvanised chassis but thought they were way to expensive. I decided to purchase a new half chassis and do all the welding myself so I have puchased a Clarke 151 TE. I am a little apprehensive regarding the welding as I havent done any for over 30 years ! I will no doubt be on this forum asking lots of questions so please be patient with me.
My first question is should I be using 0.6 or 0.8 wire to weld the chassis which is approx 2mm thick.
Also any tips and advice would be very much appreciated.

remember the chassis rusts from the inside as well so what looks good on the outside could be a lot thinner than 2mm the last one i did was as least 30 hours in welding let alone making the plates etc
a quick look all it needed was a rear crossmember and two outriggers but by the time it was all cleaned up a lot more

 

[mfletch]

I think the wiring loom goes though the chassis so watch out for that

 

[Kent]

The chassis is 14 swg when new, the steel was poor at the time. When doing the half chassis joint weld it then Fish plate it all four sides (take the rear floor out to get the top one). The joint is done on the high bit were corrosion isn't usually so bad, if it is bad the chassis is scrap and you should start from a new chassis. While your at it check the outriggers with a hammer

 

[smilersmith]

Thanks for everybodys replies. I think the restoration will be a long slow process. After the rear chassis I have 2 outriggers to replace and then repairs to the bulkhead.
I have already purchased a 200tdi engine that will replace the slow thirsty 2.25 petrol.
New parabolic springs and shocks will also be fitted along with new front doors.

 

[smilersmith]

The chassis is 14 swg when new, the steel was poor at the time. When doing the half chassis joint weld it then Fish plate it all four sides (take the rear floor out to get the top one). The joint is done on the high bit were corrosion isn't usually so bad, if it is bad the chassis is scrap and you should start from a new chassis. While your at it check the outriggers with a hammer

Thanks for the advice just one question what do you mean by "fish plate"?

 

[Jan]

That's a steel plate applied so that it passes 'over' the welded joint - after it's been ground flush - and then welded into place to add strength to the joint. Care has to be taken so that it doesn't protrude too 'high' over the level of the box section and lose any necessary clearances.

Don't forget that the galvanising will have to be removed at the weld points before welding starts. Apart from the toxic fumes there's the contamination of the weld puddle to consider.

 

[Kent]

That's a steel plate applied so that it passes 'over' the welded joint - after it's been ground flush - and then welded into place to add strength to the joint. Care has to be taken so that it doesn't protrude too 'high' over the level of the box section and lose any necessary clearances.

Don't forget that the galvanising will have to be removed at the weld points before welding starts. Apart from the toxic fumes there's the contamination of the weld puddle to consider.

Its not galvanised unless on an after market chassis, In which case why has it corroded so bad to need a half chassis?. and I shouldn't normally grind the first weld flat. The fish plate is shaped like a lozenge. Rectangle with the corners cut off long, this stops having a straight join clean across the chassis leg. Remember corner to corner the fishplates if you can

 

[Jan]

He states that he's bought a new half chassis. If a full one is galvanised I would expect a half one to be as well.

 

[octo0072000]

He states that he's bought a new half chassis. If a full one is galvanised I would expect a half one to be as well.

landy after market half chassis will not be galved

 

[Kent]

He states that he's bought a new half chassis. If a full one is galvanised I would expect a half one to be as well.

very unusual to galvanise a weld in item? Not keen on welding galv personally least of all under an old landrover. Done quite a few of these years ago and I used to make up the bits. Surprises me there are many 2s and 3s still good enough to bother welding (obviously there are)

 

[mfletch]

These are good for landy bits http://www.paddockspares.com/

 

[waldershelf]

These are good for landy bits http://www.paddockspares.com/

They are the best place around for the vast stock they carry and for keen prices. Beware however their main supplier is the dreaded Britpart so be careful when ordering critical or stressed parts.

 

[waldershelf]

Two other good suppliers that give you a choice of part manufacturer.

http://www.lrdirect.com/

http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/en/ui/

 

[Robotstar5]

They are the best place around for the vast stock they carry and for keen prices. Beware however their main supplier is the dreaded Britpart so be careful when ordering critical or stressed parts.

Last time I ordered track rod ends I specified OE/branded not their cheap ones for that reason.