King pins

[Hitch]

Need some tips on removing a king pin, on a sideloader.

Retaining bolt removed, all soaked in penetrating fluid.

They are at a slight angle, the bottom of the pin is only half accessible, one side of it is obscured by the back of hub/backplate, the pin can only go up...
I'm trying to cheat, it would probably be a bit easier if i removed the drum, back plate etc etc...but don't want to get that involved if i can help it.

Not spent much time and effort on it yet.

I really really dont want to take the whole axle out and bung the end in the 250toner But that will remove it worst comes to worst.

Tried jacking it up using a spacer on a jack, but all that seems to happen is the truck goes up and the pin stays put. Cant really get in to give the axle a pasting with a sledge. Ive tried steering from side to side to help release while under load, but no joy.


I suppose i need a king pin press really..... better make one.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Have you tried heat?

 

[langy]

I always use a bit of heat on stubborn kingpins, come out easy then.

 

[Welderpaul]

Can you prop/wedge the top of the s/l under something heavy (Acrow prop on bed to underside of beam/roof?) and then try jacking the pin up?

 

[snowcat]

Not a proper king pin arrangement then? assuming a straight pin on oil lite bushes through a boss?

I normally do these if there tight by making up a C shaped fixture so I can push them hard with a bottle jack, sometimes its best to gas the D off the top de bur and push the whole lot down, heat may help but Im assuming its something like a 45mm pin with around a 70mm boss, and keeping the boss swollen without heating the pin is often hard, also the pins are bound to have shoulders on them so its a good idea to slide a jack under the carrier to juggle the weight about, Id also hit the the pin in the opersite way to your pushing, sounds stupid but it shocks the pin all the way down and also stops you from creating a mushroom on the end you want to force out.

If all else fails burn it out, horrible job but sometimes the quickest way. I still have the burns from refurbing a piece of kit for a client, 100mm pins 700mmL 6off all ended up being burnt out

 

[Hitch]

Might just pepperpot it, left it outside. Guarantee if you take something apart in the workshop it will be in the way of something

 

[Hitch]

Axle is a gert lump, looks like 80 solid or so.... pin is fixed in that, then smallish bushes top and bottom in the top of the [ shaped hub part.

Pins are about 40mm.

The covers both top and bottom have long gone it appears, and whatever shim/spacer went between the axle and top of the bottom bit of hub has gone. Other side appears to have a gert washer/spacer thing about 20mm thick. The problem side this spacer has totally gone, and the two have been rubbing. Where the hub has pushed up, the pin is stuck out the bottom 20mm or so, i can get the hub to move up or down the pin, just not move in the axle.

Dont really want to burn it out, all appears in reasonable condition, it will get a clean up, new shim, covers and greasers, and reassembled hopefully.

 

[normspanners]

Sometimes you can smash the thrust bearing races up, with a solid tapered pin punch that gives you a little movement up and down enough to cut the pin at the bottom then lift the stub axle and cut the top that gets the hub out of the way then all you have to deal with is the pin which you can then put a tube under the axle to the floor and knock the pin down.

 

[snowcat]

That arrangement inst the best, the bottom and maybe the top would likely have had a grooved disk against the carrier and axle, It Reillys on the grease to keep this lubed, as soon as it drys, it wears the carrier and the shims, the second problem is often the oi lite bushes wear to the steel and if your lucky it knackers the pin if your unlucky it has the carriers.

Coned top and bottom pins are 100x better.

If youve got it in bits change the whole lot, Pin, bushes and reshim, The Houseman has the same system, and Rears need doing every 2000hrs or so, Pins come with the kit...

If you get enough force the pin will shift sometimes iv put 2 jacks with a bar across and welded a square frame..

 

[truckdoctor]

Are you sure there is nothing retaining the king pin, sometimes they have a COTTER PIN passing through the stub axle part.

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

I have had the pins worn so badly there is a step developed on it andthe negative weight of the hub and wheel assy pulling down stops it moving until you got it in the exact tight place.

 

[arthur]

Heat heat and more heat, and a whole load of whacking! That's how it's always been for us.

 

[normspanners]

Are you sure there is nothing retaining the king pin, sometimes they have a COTTER PIN passing through the stub axle part.

Retaining bolt removed, all soaked in penetrating fluid.

2nd line

 

[octo0072000]

on the LDVs and older trannys with king pins it was less grief to just drop the axle and do it on the bench press
then fit it all up on the bench we only did kingpins as a pair