Kilmak welders - does anyone know anything about them on here?

[633Squadron]

I have recently acquired a Kilmak Fantom 165 Arc-Tig inverter welder, that I believe is of Turkish origin. Does anyone know about these machines on here and where I might obtain a manual for it in English?

It may also need to be repaired, so once I've taken a look at it, I'll probably be asking lots of questions about the insides.

 

[CRB]

Not even a section for them.

Send it to skotl


On second thoughts, better not,...... Kill Mak

 

[cumbriasteve]

Often machines sold in other countries are the same as sold here but simply renamed to sound good in that specific country.

Googling identifies they are still a brand that's for sale but they don't resemble anything I have seen, so possibly a Chinese made set for that brand name, which makes getting info more difficult, although anyone with a decent knowledge of components may be able to check out the internals if required.

Think your best bet is a bit of surfing the net and attempt to contact the supplier, hopefully they could supply a manual of sorts.

 

[500e]

Try here
http://www.kilmak.com/index.php/en/products/mmaweldingmachines/item/smart-901.html

 

[633Squadron]

I found that site yesterday, but no user or service manuals seem to exist on their web site.

I've opened it up this morning, fitted a mains plug and tried firing it up. It does power on, but the fan isn't running at all, the power and thermal overload lights are both on and it's giving out 28vDC no matter what setting the dial is on. I've also found that it has been messed with internally in the past, as there are aftermarket crimp-on connectors on some of the leads. There's a black box that I think should be connected near where the fan connects to the board and I'm not 100% sure that the internal mains wiring is correct. Pictures are below.
View media item 8084View media item 8083View media item 8082
Any ideas, please?

 

[633Squadron]

OK, I've discovered that the black box is a 12v relay, possibly a solid state type. The type is JTN1aS-TMP-F DC12v and is also marked AJT 2515 and 01103Q. The terminals are COM and NO, the NC terminal is blanked off. This is obviously some sort of relay activated by voltage, but I can't see where the feed for the relay comes from at the moment. I presume that the Normally Open contact of the relay that isn't connected might be the problem as to why it isn't working properly. One theory I have is that it should be connected in series with one of the lines from the power switch that got removed when the new connectors were crimped on. I'm looking for the spec sheet for the relay now.

There's also a small red LED that is lit on the board when power is applied, but I am unsure if that is just to register power on or not.

I've moved the cooling fan fan out of the way of the circuit board (it normally screws between the two plastic brackets at the bottom of the first picture) and have taken some more photographs, in the hope that the circuit board is familiar to someone on here.

 

[MoreWellie]

Take your pick and if you find one that looks very similar try going for a manual for that

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=1...OouAUZX_g-AM&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1533&bih=997

 

[633Squadron]

OK, the relay is definitely a 12v solid-state type and I'm getting 17v DC at the coil points on the PCB according to my voltmeter, which is promising. The question is this; what should be being switched on by this relay, what voltage should be going across the COM and NO contacts and where should the COM and NO terminals be wired to?

 

[633Squadron]

I've been repairing this inverter welding set (Arc/Tig) over the last week or two and have replaced most of the damaged components, but one simple component has stumped me. It's a grey wire-wound resistor that is approx. 14mm long and 3mm diameter, it is grey but most of the coloured bands were blown off when the resistor died and the bands aren't readable with any reliability. It's open circuit and I've contacted the manufacturer of the welding machine (Nurkay Kilmak in Turkey) for details on the resistor, in terms of wattage and resistance value. If they won't provide the information on the resistor to me, is there any alternative way that I can find out what value it should be?

 

[633Squadron]

I think it's fixed. I replaced all of the Schottky diodes, the LM317 and found a resistor that had died (the grey one, between the black heat sink that has the LM317 and the black/gold capacitor in the third picture). The markings on the resistor had been vaporised, but a member on another forum who speaks Turkish rang them and got the details.

One 2R2, 7 Watt wirewound resistor later and it has coughed into life! I'll try some test welds later this week but for now, I'm just happy that it's powered up, the temperature warning goes out and the fan seems to work as it should.

 

[mike 109444]

Leave the covers off when testing it, that way you (or a watcher) can monitor for smoking components before they go to far! BUT remember not to poke your fingers in to check temp with power still on!!

 

[633Squadron]

It's had half an hour soak test, with the power on and no load - nothing smoked or went pop. I'm going to try a test weld this weekend on the lowest setting with the smallest rods I have.

 

[633Squadron]

After doing some test welds today, I can confirm that it's fully operational - a nice result! I bought two non-working inverters for £20 and after a small outlay on parts, I'm already ahead on the deal.

I can now turn my attention to the Clarke inverter unit to repair that one and decide if I want to buy a TIG torch for the Kilmak or not.

 

[Hubert Musyoka]

Please advice me this green component which is burnt in my machine and there is no power coming through. Welding machine Kilmak Phantom 165. Please help to identify the component and advice further.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Welcome to the forum, Hubert . This thread is three [ish] years old, it might be better if you started a new thread as the OP hasn't been on since then.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Once again I will suggest @pdg may be able to advise with that type of problem but he may need a better photo or close up of the component.