Key problems

[nickk]

My 2010 transit wouldn’t start Wednesday am,maybe due to leaving the keys in the door lock all night!
Took the fob apart,left it on the immersion tank for a couple of days,as I’ve done this before successfully ,still won’t start,spins over fine ,with all the dash lights displayed.
I’ve replaced the battery in the fob a year or so back,but the buttons to open the doors haven’t worked for many years.
Any helpful ideas ? Thanks.

 

[Ruffian]

Maybe immobiliser pickup ring failure rather than key fault.

Does the red lef light go out on the dash before cranking?

 

[Kram]

Usually the immobiliser part of the key is a self contained and waterproof chip/black plastic rectangle, entirely seperate to the key fobs locking/unlock pcb.

 

[Alan Reynolds]

It may need to be “reconnected” to the car. It might have become out of synch with the pickup ring. Some cars and vans have a sequence that you can go through which can involve things as silly as opening passenger doors and counting for several seconds while inserting the key into the lock and pressing the open/close buttons. You may find the sequence on line. I’ve had several vehicles where I’ve had to do this.

 

[Robotstar5]

It may need to be “reconnected” to the car. It might have become out of synch with the pickup ring. Some cars and vans have a sequence that you can go through which can involve things as silly as opening passenger doors and counting for several seconds while inserting the key into the lock and pressing the open/close buttons. You may find the sequence on line. I’ve had several vehicles where I’ve had to do this.

Ford used to supply a red key along with the 2 normal black ones, it was used when programming replacement keys to the vehicle.

 

[m_c]

Most likely the key has failed. If the key's split at all, it could have gotten moisture inside, which if you leave it somewhere warm and dry, it may start working again.

On that age of Transit, the remote/immobilizer part of the key is all combined, and should be fully sealed as it contains a rechargeable battery which gets charged via the immobilizer transciever.
If it should lose sync, you just need to insert the key into the ignition and the rolling codes for the remote should re-sync.

Ford haven't supplied master keys since a few years before they stopped red chip keys, and they moved to blue chip keys with the 2000 model Transit.

 

[Melvyn Best]

If you haven’t managed to sort it out It might be worth having a word with a mobile locksmith that specialises in vehicle keys? There is or was one in our local area that I’m sure would be able to help . Other possibility is a key and transponder from a scrappy ?

 

[knighty]

2010 transit key you can open it up and see the little chip/thing that does the immobiliser

do you have a spare? you can go to most key cutting place and they'll make you a new key and clone the chip so it doesn't need programming van side.. the remote needs doing but you can do that yourself

1. Get in to the van and make sure all doors are closed.
2. Put any key that turns the ignition in to the ignition.
3. Turn the ignition from position “0” to position “II” eight times within 10 seconds.
4. The ignition key will end in the position “II”
5. The door locks will lock and unlock, the van is now in “programme mode” you only have 20 seconds for the next instruction
6. Press any button on the new remote
7. The door locks will lock and unlock, this indicates the remote is programmed
8. Repeat instruction 6 for any existing remotes or new remotes (a maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed)
9. Turn the ignition to position “0” the door locks will lock and unlock to show the programming is complete

I've got the computer that can plug into the van and add keys etc. but you're pretty far away, n idea what a garage charges for that

 

[8ob]

A couple of our transits would tit about like this, turned out to be a cold solders on a circuit board behind the speedo cluster. Not sure if they still suffer with this common problem.

Bob

 

[nickk]

Thanks,I’ll try those procedures @knighty .
As they’ve got wet before,the key on the immersion has solved it always,FFS,to me a key is an outdoor product.
Is that the little black square,the immobiliser?

 

[mtt.tr]

A couple of our transits would tit about like this, turned out to be a cold solders on a circuit board behind the speedo cluster. Not sure if they still suffer with this common problem.

Bob

Yup the gauges all drop out when driving

 

[nickk]

Only got to op 4,thought I wasn’t quick enough so tried it anyway and it worked,no doors locking or unlocking.
Printed the procedures and left in the glove box,many thanks @knighty .

 

[m_c]

I would suggest you get a spare key cut and programmed.

 

[angellonewolf]

on my cmax if the remote looses connection it was put key in 2 clicks to ign on (no start car) then press lock butten the locks close then open the rest i forget but was only a youtube vid away might be worth a look and mines an 08

 

[knighty]

Thanks,I’ll try those procedures @knighty .
As they’ve got wet before,the key on the immersion has solved it always,FFS,to me a key is an outdoor product.
Is that the little black square,the immobiliser?

just popped a key apart to check

I was remembering the older leys when the immobiliser chip was separate to the key fob buttons/electrics

I'm not 100% but I'm pretty sure it's the black chip with the "2HR" on it - it's in the same position in the same little stick out bit on the key and about the same size as the old ones - also looks like it's just glued on and not part of the circuit

don't think there's much you can do if it's dead other than get a new key or swap these internals for some other internals and have the van plugged into a computer to add it



EDIT: oops replied before I read all the replies!

glad it's working :-)

 

[premmington]

A couple of our transits would tit about like this, turned out to be a cold solders on a circuit board behind the speedo cluster. Not sure if they still suffer with this common problem.

Bob

Ref the above - I have "re wetted" hundreds of Transit and Focus clusters.

 

[nickk]

Is it possible to replace the 2hr component individually?
Then do a diy re program.

 

[m_c]

The 2HR component is just an inductor. The actual immobiliser coding on those remote keys is handled by the chip in the middle of the circuit board.
The inductor is in the same location as a non-remote key, as that's where the system is designed for the wireless communication to happen.

 

[knighty]

The 2HR component is just an inductor. The actual immobiliser coding on those remote keys is handled by the chip in the middle of the circuit board.
The inductor is in the same location as a non-remote key, as that's where the system is designed for the wireless communication to happen.

are you sure? - totally hold my hands up and say this isn't my area so I have no specialist info/knowledge - but there's no soldered connections on it, not that I can see anyway, nothing on either side of the board?

 

[m_c]

are you sure? - totally hold my hands up and say this isn't my area so I have no specialist info/knowledge - but there's no soldered connections on it, not that I can see anyway, nothing on either side of the board?

There will be solder pads on the underside of it.
It's quite a bit bigger than the transponders in the standard keys, as it also has to pick up/generate enough current to charge the key battery, as well as interact with the immobilser system.
I'd guess it also doubles up as the transmitter for the remote as well.

I think most manufacturers have gone away from separate transponders and remote circuits, and combine them now.