Jotun paint

[rcx132]

I spoke to SML coatings about Jotun epoxy paint because it looks much cheaper than Epoxy 121 especially by the time you start buying bigger thinner bottles to clean your gear.

SML have said that Jotun paint needs to be sprayed with an airless sprayer, which is a £200 investment for a decent DIY machine (Wagner Airless Sprayer Plus). But it would eventually pay for itself as Jotun paint is much cheaper.

The Jotun stuff also comes with proper data sheets for temperatures, curing times, humidity and has results from "salt testing".

If the 121 epoxy really is rebranded Jotun (how do we know?) then by air spraying it is being weakened.

SML also said that a EN405:2001 mask is all that is needed. I think this equates to a P2 grade mask that you can buy in Screwfix.

I'm a bit of a by the book ass, and I've got quite a bit of painting to do so I might go for the Jotun paint and airless gun, plus the airless gun will be good for painting my house. The Wagner airless gun just about meets the specs for the Jotun paint but you need to buy a bigger tip because it only comes with a 17 thou tip and you need a 19 - 25. I spoke to Wagner technical and the gun seems decent.

 

[ajlelectronics]

If you are doing underbody, then use a brush. If doing bodywork then use Lechler, not Jotun. I will accept £100 as 50% of the saving I have just given you. ;-)

 

[rcx132]

If you are doing underbody, then use a brush. If doing bodywork then use Lechler, not Jotun.

I'm doing suspension parts, space frame chassis, steel 4x4 bumpers, tow bars, wishbones, gearbox flanges, axles....

I will look at the Lechler, I just started reading Jotun first. Remind me why you prefer Lechler and what the difference is?

Thank you for the help and advice.

 

[Burdekin]

FYI all of Jotun's paints that say they can be applied by spraying detail airless spraying as the method, I assume because they are aimed at the industrial market. But they spray fine with conventional spray guns with no issues.

You can download the epoxy 121 datasheet from the Rustbuster website and then compare with the Jotun smartpack datasheet.

The Lechler epoxy sprays easier and lays nicer than the Jotun paints from my experience so I'd use Lechler if spraying panels etc, but Jotun Jotamastic 80/87 etc are good for underbody applications.

 

[steveo3002]

ive sprayed jotun...sprays like anything else so no need for a special airless gun

ive tried the 121 too and its suspiciously similar apart from the price , jotun is great for underbody bits n bobs , hard to beat for the price

 

[zx9]

I spoke to SML coatings about Jotun epoxy paint because it looks much cheaper than Epoxy 121 especially by the time you start buying bigger thinner bottles to clean your gear.

I have not used Jotun epoxy but if it is like the Lechler epoxy it does not need special thinners for cleaning the gun, any cellie, 2K thinners or gun wash will do.

 

[rcx132]

I have not used Jotun epoxy but if it is like the Lechler epoxy it does not need special thinners for cleaning the gun, any cellie, 2K thinners or gun wash will do.

Yey more money saving tips

 

[steveo3002]

yes jotun cleans fine with normal gunwash

 

[Maxakarudy]

I don't know why it's only suitable for underneath a car only, it's primer that gets sanded down, it flows out like every other primer on the market.
Also it's effectively twice as cheap as everyting else as it has twice the film thickness of Lechler, go figure why people use anything else ..I can't,
BTW you do need to add more thinner with conventional spray gun against airless spraying and don't mix different solvents, this will affect adhesion
Martin

 

[ajlelectronics]

I don't know why it's only suitable for underneath a car only, it's primer that get sanded down, it flows out like every other primer on the market.

Au contraire!

Also it's effectively twice as cheap as everyting else as it has twice the film thickness of Lechler, go figure why people use anything else ..I can't,

Because it doesn't flow out well, it takes longer to sand back amongst other things. All the spraying and application information is published for Lechler as it is designed for automotive use. Jotun is designed for marine use and has no useful information provided for anything but airless spraying.

I use both, it's horses for courses.

BTW you do need to add more thinner with conventional spray gun against airless spraying and don't mix different solvents, this will affect adhesion

Lechler do their branded thinners and it is different to universal 2K thinner. Gun cleaning needs the epoxy thinners initially, then change to gunwash. Otherwise it takes much longer to clean out.

 

[steveo3002]

no reason you cant use it on bodywork , but as said theres stuff that lays on nicer if doing it all day long it easy /better , but for guys doing odd jobs at home yeah fine

 

[rcx132]

Could it be that Jotun is harder to apply than Lechler because it is more durable?

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

It is harder to spray because it has a much thicker consistency, so it goes on more slowly as less gets through the gun. I like it for the underside of the car and suspension components as it goes on thick. I would never use it for body panels.

 

[Burdekin]

For me Lechler is easier to spray and lays flatter. But I'm just a novice spray painter. I also use Lechler as a high build and it sands nicely as well.

I've only sprayed Jotamastic 80 and smartpack from the Jotun range.

 

[Maxakarudy]

It is harder to spray because it has a much thicker consistency, so it goes on more slowly as less gets through the gun.

Agreed it is thicker than Lechler, so needs more thinner....what's hard about that?


Because it doesn't flow out well, it takes longer to sand back amongst other things.

Must be doing something wrong IMO.

This is a car I restored last year, bare metal strip, aluminium body....mine... I practise what I say

 

[Burdekin]

Lovely car. Have you sprayed Lechler and used it as well? Jotun certainly will do the job there's no questioning that but when I spray it I get more orange peel so needs more blocking out to remove. I use to use only Jotun but prefer spraying Lechler as I get the finish nicer.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Lovely car. Have you sprayed Lechler and used it as well? Jotun certainly will do the job there's no questioning that but when I spray it I get more orange peel so needs more blocking out to remove. I use to use only Jotun but prefer spraying Lechler as I get the finish nicer.

In a nutshell.

 

[steveo3002]

Could it be that Jotun is harder to apply than Lechler because it is more durable?

differant uses really isnt it ....lechler is for refinishing cars , jotun i think was originaly for the ship industry where finish doesnt matter so much

either get the job done

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

what's hard about that?

I said harder, not hard, its all relative.

Are you thinning beyond what is recommended in the data sheet?

 

[Maxakarudy]

I said harder, not hard, its all relative.

Are you thinning beyond what is recommended in the data sheet?

No, I don't thin on bare metal, I use a roller

This is my personal preference, everybody has their own tried and tested method, who's to say one way or the other is better?

At the bare metal stage I don't give a monkeys about orange peel, I'm just putting primer down, I'm going to fill or long board it down with 120g, by hand, I never use a D/A, hard work maybe, I'm not bothered about easy.

When I'm happy with blocking it with 120g and sealed any filler with epoxy, then I'll use spray filler/primer for final prep work, when I've guide coated that and I'm happy, then I'll spray a coat of solid gloss as a final stage before the finishing coat, whatever that is base/clear or solid colour.

This may seem a bit long winded to some, but it's my time and I'm in no rush to get it done asap, I've done commercial bodyshop painting and it's all about time,speed = money

BTW, I don't use Jotun because it's cheap, it just cos it works

Martin