ah , your pic shows front , but your working on the rear ,,,, didnt realise that
can you turn the wheels round ,,,, inside out and look at a set of truck collets and flat bolts ,, no welding needed at all
- Thread starter can_of_worms
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can you turn the wheels round ,,,, inside out and look at a set of truck collets and flat bolts ,, no welding needed at all
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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Weld original splines to oversized stock, weld new flange to stock, turn axle and wheel flange to size between centers.
The post-welding turning operations do a lot of the heavy lifting mind.
Making new splines is a massive hassle, and that's assuming you already own a tool and cutter grinder, dividing head, and [insert preferred cutting machine of choice].
For non-performance applications, welding the ends of the existing axles into a new assembly which has a machining allowance to let you take the inevitable warping out is usually the quickest easiest way.
It's neither particularly quick or easy though.
Gareth J
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Another thought.
Cut the axle in the middle of your accessibility between wheel and body.
Buy some heavy walled tube with 3/4" bore.
Like this (but somewhere with it in stock)
Fit as long a bit of pipe over the join as you can, without loosing welding accessibility.
Weld the shaft to the ends of the pipe.
I think, with good tolerance pipe and a bit of luck, you'd end up with something concentric enough to get away with.
Edit;
One big drawback with this idea is that you bias the flexibility of the axle to the (now, relatively) thinner bits of it. So you risk fatiguing and cracking the welds or shaft. It's a particularly high risk as the mower suspension is only those shafts and the squash of the tyres. And by widening the track, you're giving the system more leverage to stress the joint too.
Adding pillow block bearings outboard of the joins as you suggested before will reduce the risk of stressing the join but make an already stiff ride moreso and make alignment more critical.
Cut the axle in the middle of your accessibility between wheel and body.
Buy some heavy walled tube with 3/4" bore.
Like this (but somewhere with it in stock)
STEEL TUBE/PIPE HEAVY WALL 1"OD - 3"OD MECHANICAL COLD DRAWN AND HOT FINISHED | eBay UK
TO FIND BORE SIZE DEDUCT 2 X WALL THICKNESS FROM O.D. EXAMPLE 2"OD X 1/4"WALL = 1.1/2"I.D.
ebay.us
Fit as long a bit of pipe over the join as you can, without loosing welding accessibility.
Weld the shaft to the ends of the pipe.
I think, with good tolerance pipe and a bit of luck, you'd end up with something concentric enough to get away with.
Edit;
One big drawback with this idea is that you bias the flexibility of the axle to the (now, relatively) thinner bits of it. So you risk fatiguing and cracking the welds or shaft. It's a particularly high risk as the mower suspension is only those shafts and the squash of the tyres. And by widening the track, you're giving the system more leverage to stress the joint too.
Adding pillow block bearings outboard of the joins as you suggested before will reduce the risk of stressing the join but make an already stiff ride moreso and make alignment more critical.
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