Jigging Cost? Please, please help.

[Freedo]

What a great forum this is! I've been looking around this forum for some time. I have a PortaMig 215 which is perfect for all my car needs but this is different. I'm thinking about buying this slavage BMW 320D for my commute / tow car. Very good engine so I've heard. Any way here is the damage - fixable?;

Cheers boys and girls...

 

[oz.]

Personally I don't touch anything that needs jigging with a barge pole. The only thing i would do is to strip her down and use the bits/sell on.

I have heard the the 320D engines are good reliable but most importantly economic. So if it is possible - find a Bimmer with a dieing engine and swap the engine and any higher spec bits.

 

[Freedo]

Thanks for the input oz. I know what you're saying regarding jigging a car. I wouldn't accept a 'jigged' car if it were a performance car, etc but I solely want this 320D for commuting and towing, cheaply - with a little style as well. It only seems minor right?

For the price I really can not complain.

This is the one thing I do not know much about. So any input will be much appreciated.

Matthew

 

[Tungsten Sharpener]

If you can find a back end to cut the quarters from and salvage rear end panels, I forsee few problems, did quite a few some years ago.

Have a word with your local accident repair centre and see if they will straighten any bent chassis members once you have stripped the car, a good bloke on the pullers should sort it within a half day. Even if they charge you sixty an hour, its worth it to know its been done properly.

TS

 

[Freedo]

Cheers buddy. Thats good to hear!

I think it'll be quicker and easier to jig it out. When you say 'stripped' do you mean just the rear bumper and boot?

 

[Tungsten Sharpener]

Quarters stripped to top of window on the outer skin and as low as possible with the inner skin, all external panels removed and take a photo of the inner boot, post that and then we`ll see how much if any of the boot internals need removing.

It could be a lot easier to strip the lot and just work the original chassis rails, if you can get a full back end, do.

TS

 

[oz.]

One point with that - when you weld on the new panels make sure the car is on flat ground. Cars do flex a little so you want it as straight as possible when you're doing the work.

Good luck with the project

 

[Freedo]

Thanks for both your inputs...

Is it an 'easyish' job welding a new 1/4 panel on? As theres one on eBay for £120.

 

[daf45]

I cant be much help but I'd be interested to see how you get on with that.
320D is the popular one to have with the tuners - better starting point than the 330 apparently.
My boy will be wanting his first car soon and I've been looking at light salvage but this jigging does seem to be a bit of a dark art...

 

[Freedo]

Hi daf,

Yes so I've heard! You can get alot of torque while increasing MPG with some remaps. Very good engines indeed!

What will the thickness likely to be? I have a PortaMig 215.

 

[oz.]

Repair panels aren't that hard. Probably the hardest bit is removing the old battered panel really - finding all the sodding spotwelds.

Make nice clean cuts down by the sill and up towards the roof remove the rest of the panel. Clamp the new one on marking precisely where it needs to be cut. Proceed to cut and check its right - it might need a little more trimming for a good fit.

I suspect puddle welds are probably going to be the best alternative to spot welds. Repair panels usually have a protective coating on the for transport so you may not have to paint the inside before welding the new bit in place. Take your time in welding and practice with the material you removed from the car. If you've done it well you should be able to just take the flap disc to your welds then go over them with some finer grit sandpaper to get a paintable finish.

I suggest a full external respray as paint matching doesn't always work but Thats completely up to you.

 

[pedrobedro]

Is it a cat C or D write off ? If it's a cat C there's more work than it looks like, assessors don't scrap repairable cars lightly these days. Check the boot floor, rear panel, inner wheel arch etc. and price up the boot lid with trim and bumper to see how much it's really going to cost. BMW do use new technology like adhesives and boron steel for their chassis and have earth straps on chassis members for continuity across adhesive barriers, some of which is not DIY territory.

 

[dannyweld]

hi, i would cut across where marked, do the same with new rear panel and fit in, i would strip out as much as you like with this one as your talking about some serious repainting, nice motor.

 

[HOUNDMAGNET]

Hi,can you have a drive in the vehicle,briefly off the highway of course...lol?...If so does it track in a straight line?.....if not forget it!.....a vehicle with bent/damaged structural members is not worth the hassle....you will need a proper inspection to re-register and insure the car afterwards and that could be a nightmare.
If the car does track ok,then in my opinion it would be worth a repair.Assuming the boot floor pan is reasonably straight then a good panel beater may be able to pull the majority of dents out with studs.