Jetwasher splurting oil

[skotl]

My much loved sheppach is puking oil out of what looks like its housing.

Now all you folks who can dismantle a car or truck engine in 30 seconds will laugh at me but I genuinely wouldn't know where to start with this, so guidance appreciated. I presume there would be a gasket between the two main parts of the housing - does that look like it needs replaced or could it be as simple as me just needing to screw the housing down more?

Additional pics for context:

 

[m_c]

Hard to tell from the video, but is it leaking from the crankcase join?

If it is, then it'll really need to have the crankcase split and resealed.

 

[bricol]

My lawnmower leaked oil badly from the same sort of split line.

Removed it, split it and discovered most of the gasket had left! As the lower crank bearing was in the bottom half, and the gasket was a coloured plastic, I was concerned the gasket was also a sized shim to give end float - that's exactly what we do on some of our machine designs.

So I hacked up the remains of the gasket so they still sat around the bolt holes, and used a suitable oil resistant sealant around everywher else - no oil loss yet this year, and more importantly, no funny noises.

I turned the mower over, drained the oil via the filler, removed it from the base/deck, which then exposed the screws holding the bottom part of the casing - I suspect the washer is the same sort of assembly.

 

[JOEPRO]

I would be trying this first.

Drain engine oil overnight. Drain fuel tank. Thoroughly clean the joint with carb cleaner and a small brush. Wire brush and wipe the surface clean.

Prop engine on its side and apply this sealant in sections.



Yes on the outside of the joint. It's like thick super glue and sets up quite hard. Resistant to fuel and oil.

Leave it to set up for a couple of days before re filling with oil.

I bet that will work just fine. This sealant is strong stuff and seals almost anything when prepped correctly. I have used it before on transmission pumps.

 

[skotl]

I would be trying this first.

Drain engine oil overnight. Drain fuel tank. Thoroughly clean the joint with carb cleaner and a small brush. Wire brush and wipe the surface clean.

Prop engine on its side and apply this sealant in sections.

View attachment 495026

Yes on the outside of the joint. It's like thick super glue and sets up quite hard. Resistant to fuel and oil.

Leave it to set up for a couple of days before re filling with oil.

I bet that will work just fine. This sealant is strong stuff and seals almost anything when prepped correctly. I have used it before on transmission pumps.

Thanks for this - will order some and try that as this seems less scary than cracking the crank case open.
And this stuff just goes round the case joint?

 

[JOEPRO]

Thanks for this - will order some and try that as this seems less scary than cracking the crank case open.
And this stuff just goes round the case joint?

Yes it is clear in colour and cures hard in a few hours. Applied externally over the joint it still should work if the surface is cleaned properly with carb cleaner and wiped off.

 

[Argonman]

I don’t know where you can find the space to park a jet. Let alone wash one.

 

[skotl]

I've ordered the seal-all, drained the oil and petrol, and removed the engine from the chassis.

But then I noticed that this "top of oil filler" black plastic thingy isn't seating correctly so I'll do the seal-all but would replace this if I could get one. Problem is that googling for spare parts (Scheppach HPC2600) doesn't produce any useful parts list.

What would this "top of the oil filler" thingy be called?

(if I can't find a replacement I'll 3D print a spacer to get it to sit right)

 

[skotl]

Reassembled the washer today, with a 3D printed PETG washer to make the dipstick sit better and a liberal coating of Seal-All around the gasket.

Looking good so far...