My 200P was fine, then had a short in the torch/trigger switch. Then, when I turned it on, it went 'live' straight away-HF on, arc on, gas on. Trigger did nothing. Got gun fixed, and 2 relays and mosfets on HF board replaced. Now when I turn it on, the fan starts and digital readout lights up, but only for a second, then everythings dead. Cant find a service manual or wiring schematics ANYWHERE. Any help or suggestions very appreciated guys.
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Jasic WSE200P problems.
- Thread starter lessells
- Start date
I haven't come across a service manual or schematic for these, and I've looked.
These people do spare boards
http://www.river-weld.com/jasic-inverter-pcb-welder-repair-wse200p-tig200-acdc-b16007_p6900.html
But it would be expensive at $90 a pop, or whatever, guessing what the fault is.
Maybe if you get in touch with them, you could get a schematic or fault finding diagram to diagnose to board level.
Generally, I don't get the impression that even expensive machines are designed and sold with the idea of component level repair, just board swaps, if that.
These people do spare boards
http://www.river-weld.com/jasic-inverter-pcb-welder-repair-wse200p-tig200-acdc-b16007_p6900.html
But it would be expensive at $90 a pop, or whatever, guessing what the fault is.
Maybe if you get in touch with them, you could get a schematic or fault finding diagram to diagnose to board level.
Generally, I don't get the impression that even expensive machines are designed and sold with the idea of component level repair, just board swaps, if that.
thanks.
Thanks mate, but i've already tried that. Would've been happy to replace board from outset, but no-one, including river-weld, have that particular board!! The one I need is the far-bottom HF board, no; B03028. The nearest importers are 3000km's away, and they dont have 'em either! Tried Riland too, but it's like tryin' to talk to a ghost!! Shops here want $100 just TO LOOK at it, cause it's a chinese brand. Very political. The fact that all 'their' brands components come from china seems to have slipped their minds........
Thanks mate, but i've already tried that. Would've been happy to replace board from outset, but no-one, including river-weld, have that particular board!! The one I need is the far-bottom HF board, no; B03028. The nearest importers are 3000km's away, and they dont have 'em either! Tried Riland too, but it's like tryin' to talk to a ghost!! Shops here want $100 just TO LOOK at it, cause it's a chinese brand. Very political. The fact that all 'their' brands components come from china seems to have slipped their minds........
Fault finding a thing like this with no cct diagram or services notes is just difficult, especially since they probably never designed the board with component level service in mind.
You might be able to spot something, such as a dry joint or just replace all the electrolytics, and that fixes it. It's usually worth having a go as a lot of faults are down to bad contacts etc, not obscure things. It might even be worth replacing all the components on the board, depending on price and assuming you can identify them. If it's a specially made chip or transformer which has failed, you've had it.
As for $100 to look at it - when you think of the time, hassle and overheads involved in fixing things and the grottiness of dealing with products where repairers probably have next to no support from the makers anyway, that's maybe not unreasonable.
You might be able to spot something, such as a dry joint or just replace all the electrolytics, and that fixes it. It's usually worth having a go as a lot of faults are down to bad contacts etc, not obscure things. It might even be worth replacing all the components on the board, depending on price and assuming you can identify them. If it's a specially made chip or transformer which has failed, you've had it.
As for $100 to look at it - when you think of the time, hassle and overheads involved in fixing things and the grottiness of dealing with products where repairers probably have next to no support from the makers anyway, that's maybe not unreasonable.
Hi Lessells,
it sounds like the main power relay not energising. It's a 30A rated device on one of the bottom boards close to the 4 (or 6) large 470 micro Farad capacitors. Its powered from a 300Vd.c. to 24Vd.c. SMPS on the top PCB.
If the relay doesn't energise the symptoms are usually as you describe, the 24V supply will initially start then switch off again.
Check the connector that goes from the top PCB to bottom power PCB first. Pull both ends and make sure the contacts are correctly in place and clean off any locking compound they use to to retain them from both halves of the connector. Also make sure the connector is located the correct way around, they will go in either way or 'off centre' with a little force. If you are not sure which connector post a photo of the left hand side of the machine and I will annotate it for you.
There may be 2, 3 or 4 PCB's on the bottom shelf, sorry WSME 200P doesn't mean too much as all the manufacturers have different themes to a similar tune!
Just one note of caution, pull the mains plug and leave the machine off for at least 5 minutes before you touch anything. The large capacitors do have bleed resistors but it does take a long time for them to discharge when there is a fault present.
If that's not it don't despair, there are quite a few other things to check which can cause a similar problem.
Mike
it sounds like the main power relay not energising. It's a 30A rated device on one of the bottom boards close to the 4 (or 6) large 470 micro Farad capacitors. Its powered from a 300Vd.c. to 24Vd.c. SMPS on the top PCB.
If the relay doesn't energise the symptoms are usually as you describe, the 24V supply will initially start then switch off again.
Check the connector that goes from the top PCB to bottom power PCB first. Pull both ends and make sure the contacts are correctly in place and clean off any locking compound they use to to retain them from both halves of the connector. Also make sure the connector is located the correct way around, they will go in either way or 'off centre' with a little force. If you are not sure which connector post a photo of the left hand side of the machine and I will annotate it for you.
There may be 2, 3 or 4 PCB's on the bottom shelf, sorry WSME 200P doesn't mean too much as all the manufacturers have different themes to a similar tune!
Just one note of caution, pull the mains plug and leave the machine off for at least 5 minutes before you touch anything. The large capacitors do have bleed resistors but it does take a long time for them to discharge when there is a fault present.
If that's not it don't despair, there are quite a few other things to check which can cause a similar problem.
Mike
