Introduction again

[saab9002]

Hi All,
I originally posted in 2013 since then many things have happened, as I’m sure it has for everyone. I have now retired and thought , this is a good time to start learning to mig weld again, I have a “blue” Argos Lincoln minimig 140, it’s about 35 yrs old, I’m into older jap bikes and they tend to turn up with rusty/ rotten metal ware. I’ve got it up and running and will be using argoshield gas. I think I’ve realised that I need to run 0.6mm wire due to the thickness, (thinness) of jap tinware but I cannot find any information about my welder. What I would like to know is what is the lowest amps is will run on, I think it needs to be around 25amps to be able to weld/repair thin sheet steel, can anyone help please.
Regards Chris

 

[Wozzaaah]

It should tell you the values on the data plate, can you post a photo of the plate please?

 

[Fazerruss]

Japanese tin is only 0.5 to 0.9 mm at best, and that's before you take into account it being thinned after blasting off the rust. If you are wanting results good enough for chrome then MIG is going to be difficult and you are better off with TIG.

 

[saab9002]

Thank you, Wozzaaah and Fazerruss for your replies, I'll have a look for a data plate, is it straight forward to post a photo on this site ? As you say Fazerruss, japanese tinware is thin, what I was thinking about, (RD400 rear mudguard)
the guard is split at the hidden end in a few places and by "spot" welding the cracks at the ends to stop them going further then plating using 0.9mm plate over on the inside, "spotting?" again then cleaning up and replating, I hope.
regards Chris

 

[Fazerruss]

Thank you, Wozzaaah and Fazerruss for your replies, I'll have a look for a data plate, is it straight forward to post a photo on this site ? As you say Fazerruss, japanese tinware is thin, what I was thinking about, (RD400 rear mudguard)
the guard is split at the hidden end in a few places and by "spot" welding the cracks at the ends to stop them going further then plating using 0.9mm plate over on the inside, "spotting?" again then cleaning up and replating, I hope.
regards Chris

The RD rear mudguards are a pain to repair as the have a large area of double skin underneath. Usually rust thinning the outer skin is the cause of cracks. You may get away with spot welding a plate but bear in mind when it goes for chrome they will linish it to get the required surface finish which weakens corrosion further. Make sure you take it to a platers who are familiar with bike parts or they will wear holes in it during polishing.

 

[saab9002]

Luckily this one seems to be split nowhere near any double skinning so fingers crossed.

Is this the label you meant Wozzaaah ?

 

[saab9002]

Well I decided to have a go, read loads of stuff on here, changed the liner, bought 0.6mm wire and nozzles. I haven't "plated/strengthened" anything yet and I'm sure you
will all be aghast and laughing at my first attempt but to be honest I'm quite pleased so far. the first pics are after a quick flash over with a hand grinder and the last is a second
go at filling a couple of small holes/bits I'd missed. It all needs cleaning, filing and polishing ready for re-chrome but for a first attempt I reckon I'm getting there.
regards Chris