Indexing Dividing Head repair ?

[W.olly]

I am trying to ensure this is in working order before i put it up for sale.

All seems fine but for the chuck will not rotate, its solid, but as said the rest seems ok and free. I have released the locking pins. as you can tell not to sure what i am doing with it.




I have moved the handle to loclk and other way and chuck doe snot rotate.

released all the pins so handle turns free, also with pins in and it rotates but not the chuck.

any thoughts please folk ?

 

[RobCox]

Have you tried messing with the worm/wormwheel engagement? It may be possible to disengage so the chuck can rotate freely.

These are not my favorite things to disassemble. No space, custom pin spanners sometimes reqd, hidden grub screws and there's zero play in most parts.

Edit: Just reread your post. I guess you have if the handle spins. Spindle play adjusted too tight?

 

[W.olly]

Have you tried messing with the worm/wormwheel engagement? It may be possible to disengage so the chuck can rotate freely.

These are not my favorite things to disassemble. No space, custom pin spanners sometimes reqd, hidden grub screws and there's zero play in most parts.

Edit: Just reread your post. I guess you have if the handle spins. Spindle play adjusted too tight?

where is the spindle play adjustment.

hanks for the help

 

[Screwdriver]

Might be worth offering for sale "as is" if you're not going to do a full restoration. While I'd love to get my hands on this, I couldn't possibly justify it so this is not a bargaining ploy! But if I was hoping to acquire it myself for restoration I would be MUCH happier if the previous owner hadn't taken it apart....

 

[addjunkie]

Top picture, have you un done the nut and moved the handle counter clockwise?

 

[Agroshield]

Dividing heads are fairly indestructable, so (and please do not take this the wrong way) any operational problems are likely to be driver error rather than mechanical fault.

In the first photo, what does the lever with the black knob on it do? Does the slotted part below that lever move when you pull on the lever?

The screen printed plate on that side of the dividing head refers to engaging or disengaging the worm. So one or both of the two items on that side does that task.

The slotted part has an adjustable stop screw at about 4 o'clock. It may be that it is possible if that is wound in too far for the worm not to engage (it is possible it is a stop to adjust mesh depth and so control backlash). Measure how far that screw is wound in, remove it completely and see if it makes any difference.

Work out what effect each extreme of the slotted part does.

See:

Cabeçote divisor Mecatécnica nº3

Marca: Mecatécnica Cabeçote Divisor Mecatécnica com bucha

maricorte.com

for possible position of lever and slotted part.

 

[Agroshield]

Please look at 2:36 on GTube:

Pause the movie and purely by luck the numbered items you can see (36, 37, 38, 39) are the ones you need.

Black knob = main spindle lock

Slotted part = engage or disengage worm

Edit: pause also at 2:51. Read the words you can see and guess at the ones you cannot and having the item in front of you, it might be enough.

 

[Screwdriver]

Precision surfaces can weld themselves together given enough time and not enough oil. I have seen a few restorations of these things and they are full of little surprises. Springs and ball detents, pingfuckits and hidden fasteners. If you had a schematic it would make things easier. But just to free things up and assuming there aren't any seals to worry about, you could just dunk it in a bucket of diesel for a week see if it loosens up.

 

[W.olly]

Top picture, have you un done the nut and moved the handle counter clockwise?

yes, that locks it all up, clockwise frees it up.

Dividing heads are fairly indestructable, so (and please do not take this the wrong way) any operational problems are likely to be driver error rather than mechanical fault.

In the first photo, what does the lever with the black knob on it do? Does the slotted part below that lever move when you pull on the lever?

The screen printed plate on that side of the dividing head refers to engaging or disengaging the worm. So one or both of the two items on that side does that task.

The slotted part has an adjustable stop screw at about 4 o'clock. It may be that it is possible if that is wound in too far for the worm not to engage (it is possible it is a stop to adjust mesh depth and so control backlash). Measure how far that screw is wound in, remove it completely and see if it makes any difference.

Work out what effect each extreme of the slotted part does.

See:

Cabeçote divisor Mecatécnica nº3

Marca: Mecatécnica Cabeçote Divisor Mecatécnica com bucha

maricorte.com

for possible position of lever and slotted part.

the lever with the knob on does nothing when tight or free. with the locking lever in any direction it does nothing.

If i move the slotted lever to lock and turn the handle, the slotted lever moves in and out if the lock nut for it is loose, as if the work gear is moving back and forth a few milimeters.

if the slotted part i in unlock then the handle spins free.

 

[MattF]

If you're planning on selling it, I'd do as @Screwdriver suggests & sell as-is.

Let the buyer deal with any work necessary. There are several occasions in the past I've not bought something simply because someone has fannied around with it & mesed things up.

 

[W.olly]

Precision surfaces can weld themselves together given enough time and not enough oil. I have seen a few restorations of these things and they are full of little surprises. Springs and ball detents, pingfuckits and hidden fasteners. If you had a schematic it would make things easier. But just to free things up and assuming there aren't any seals to worry about, you could just dunk it in a bucket of diesel for a week see if it loosens up.

that could be best option, i am unsure how long it been sat for. would getting a lever in the chuck and giving light pressure to see if it moves all do much. in damage i mean.

 

[W.olly]

If you're planning on selling it, I'd do as @Screwdriver suggests & sell as-is.

Let the buyer deal with any work necessary. There are several occasions in the past I've not bought something simply because someone has fannied around with it & mesed things up.

yes if i can not free it without stripping it sell as is.

 

[W.olly]

ok tried enough and dont want to break it...liek i would. . got so much faffing to do on other things ill not strip it, or do anything.

Whats this one worth to sell it on.

thanks all for trying to help out

 

[Screwdriver]

Shoot for the moon. See what a "good" one goes for and try it. Be honest in the description because the person looking for one will probably know a fair bit about the item anyway. Emphasise the fact that it is "unmolested" (assuming it doesn't look like someone's already cracked it apart) and that you are confident it is only stuck from being left unused for so long and is not visibly damaged (I assume it doesn't look dropped or borked in any obvious manner).

I'd take a flying guess at £200-£250. Not a cheap item and that doesn't look like a cheap version either. Again if you do your homework on the precise make/model, that info could pay dividends when you sell it.