IFL i-Tech 170 Mig Inverter

[Cobbler]

That's a good move Ned, I reckon a cheap reactive one beats a good fixed any day, far nicer to use, you can see what you are doing! There are loads of cheapo ones on the web, sold under loads of different names, but all look exactly the same. It won't take the knocks of an expensive one, but big price difference.

 

[Jan]

As long as you can dial the darkness of the lid from 9 to 13 - and it actually does do it - then a lot of the cheaper ones should be adequate for a while. My el cheapo mask allows me to see exactly what I'm doing ... even if I'm not doing as well I might. However a more expensive one might outlast it and put up with the odd knock, but those LCD panels aren't particularly rugged so dropping a blob of molten metal or a hammer on it would still put it out of action. Most of the time a replacement LCD would cost almost as much as a new titfer so I see little advantage to spending more than I need to at this time.

Anyway those welds with the borrowed visor seem strong, but try to do something you can then break apart to check for penetration/strength. The weld should hold if it's good enough, while the parent metal should bend or break first.

 

[Laurie Price]

What size spool can the IFL welding machine take? I was going to buy 0.8mm diameter wire and the 15kg spool is more cost effective but I don't know if it will fit the machine.

 

[ned]

the unit can take a 5kg roll of wire.

i have gone through three 9 liter bottles of gas in the last year, and i still have not needed to change the roll of wire.

so im my eyes the 5kg size is the way forward because the machine is more portable for it.

someone was asking how this welder is at arc welding, well i can report that its pretty good. according to my housemate who is a professional welder it is acceptable.
To me, a novice, it does arc welding well, i cant find fault with it.

 

[Bill Edwards]

i have gone through three 9 liter bottles of gas in the last year, and i still have not needed to change the roll of wire.

I'd certainly be looking at the Volkzone offer from BOC, it might save you a lot of money.

 

[ned]

cheers Bill, however im in Ireland so unlikely that would apply here. I have a pretty good deal on gas though.... lol but no reference points.... a 9 liter refill is 50 euros.
Doesnt hurt too much, and no rental fee.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Any update on how you're getting on with this, Ned?

I'm considering getting a new machine and, although I'm very much a novice having previously had a Clarke 151TE with which I could melt metal, I wouldn't mind spending a fair amount to have the options this machine appears to offer. I'm also considering an R-Tec as featured in doubleboost's video reviews, but like the look of this better.........

 

[Bladevane]

Slim_boy_fat - I bought one of these recently from Weldequip along with the IFL i-Tech Cut 40. The service given by Steve was second to none as was the effort he made to secure my custom. Unfortunately both machines arrived from IFL in damaged boxes which had also marked the machines. The plasma cutter also had a trapped electrical cable between the frame and the side panel. They were returned to IFL and 2 new machines despatched. Again there was damage to the boxes but this time the machines were in good condition. So far the welder is performing well but I have only used it in the MIG mode. A couple of gripes though. The manual tells me to connect the torch to the +ve (Gas) terminal when using gas and the earth to the -ve terminal and includes a little sketch to illustrate this. Fine. But when using gasless it tells me to connect the torch to the -ve (No Gas) terminal and the earth to the -ve terminal with the same little picture. Which is clearly wrong and has not been picked up by IFL. By the way I spoke to IFL before I bought and both machines are made for them in Hong Kong. Another gripe I had is that there is no explanation of what the burn back control actually does. The impression I had form the manual is that it keeps feeding the wire after the button is released. I now know (through researching on this site and other places) that it keeps the current on for a short period after the button is released. So a burn back setting of zero actually gives you a longer bit of wire sticking out the gun.

I have a lot to learn about settings and technique but feel the machine is user friendly and I do not have to learn its foibles or fight it to get a decent weld.

It's a shame you're a bit further than just round the corner otherwise you could have come over for a play - sorry, subjective test.

If you are going to buy I recommend discussing what the seller might be able to offer in terms of spares or wire in lieu of discount.

 

[Richard.]

Gasless mig in neg polarity usually torch- return+.
Burn back is there to stop the wire sticking at the end of the run and exactly as you say the current remains for a short second to "burn back" the wire towards the tip stop it sticking in the pool. Automated mig processes it's essential or it could be disastrous. Too much burn back and it ends up in the tip.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

......It's a shame you're a bit further than just round the corner otherwise you could have come over for a play - sorry, subjective test.

Thanks for posting your findings, Bladevane - much appreciated.

Also for your offer to 'play'. Living so far from anywhere, that's why I tend to research to the Nth degree [some would say ad nauseam ] before making big buys. It's good to hear from folk with hands-on experience of a machine.

 

[keeny]

hi ned, going back to ally welding, dont know if this right wat im saying but you can check it out, these hi-tech migs
you can get what you call a scratch tig tortchi dont think you need a wire feed through your gun just connect your pipe to gas [ARGON] a lead to power then a rod to feed in while you weld its a bit like old fashion oxy n ac

 

[ned]

Cheers Keeny.
Just feed into this to say that I still have absolutely no problems with the welder. Ive had it over a year now and it gets a fair bit of use.
I love the thing a lot. It just does nice welds. Nothings broken, nothings of bad quality, it just turns on and does its thing.

 

[PaulMcElhinney]

I've got an IFL 170. One thing that I'm not keen on is the gas feed. I used to use a Lincoln at work and that issued gas when you pressed the trigger and stopped when you released the trigger. With the IFL when you pull the trigger you get 1-2 second flow of gas even if you do a tiny tack. Also, does anyone know what the power knob, marked 11-26, represents?

 

[rikrobson]

With the IFL when you pull the trigger you get 1-2 second flow of gas even if you do a tiny tack. Also, does anyone know what the power knob, marked 11-26, represents?

I think the gas flow is by design. it post gas flow. As for the numbers they are the Open Circuit Voltage. Mig is a constant Voltage System not current. The current will depend on the wire size and arc length. So when you think you are setting the current on a MIG unit you are actually setting the Voltage.

 

[CRB]

I think the gas flow is by design. it post gas flow. As for the numbers they are the Open Circuit Voltage. Mig is a constant Voltage System not current. The current will depend on the wire size and arc length. So when you think you are setting the current on a MIG unit you are actually setting the Voltage.

MIG voltage, like it says. I suppose it does not matter, since you play with it until you get it right. It could just as easily be A B C etc.

 

[The right]

What is the setting for 1mm thickness usin 0.8mm wire for ifl 170. I got cheap mig but dunno to set up the current and wire feed. Below are my cheap mig from china... its look like ifl 170 but its not.

 

[The right]

Its mig inverter 175i from china,

 

[BrokenBiker]

Every machine is different, you will have to try it and find out what works. Start high and lower it until it works

 

[The right]

Every machine is different, you will have to try it and find out what works. Start high and lower it until it works

Thanks for info... ​