Hydraulic pump

[chrisf1]

The multi meter went to 1 when I set it to ohm I then connected one probe to wire coming out of it and the other to the casing of the pump that it was screwed into and nothing changed thanks Chris

 

[madkayaker]

sounds dead to me

 

[Paul.]

The multi meter went to 1 when I set it to ohm I then connected one probe to wire coming out of it and the other to the casing of the pump that it was screwed into and nothing changed thanks Chris

You need to check for continuity between the 2 wires from the coil, there is no electrical connection from the coil to the pump body.

 

[chrisf1]

There is only 1 wire from the coil please see pic thanks Chris

 

[Shox Dr]

There is only 1 wire from the coil please see pic thanks Chris

then it's caput

 

[chrisf1]

You need to check for continuity between the 2 wires from the coil, there is no electrical connection from the coil to the pump body.

Hi Paul I assumed that power goes in the one wire and makes the connection to earth through the pump body this coil definitely only has one wire as you can see but I have been in touch with fluidlink for a replacement and the replacement has 2 wires one to be connected to earth and the other live Chris

 

[Paul.]

Hi Paul I assumed that power goes in the one wire and makes the connection to earth through the pump body this coil definitely only has one wire as you can see but I have been in touch with fluidlink for a replacement and the replacement has 2 wires one to be connected to earth and the other live Chris

Coils come in different wiring configuration, some have terminal pins for use with a wired socket, some have flying leads, I suspect one of the cables or terminals has broken off flush with the body of the coil, also some lowering valves can be manually operated by pushing the poppet open with a screwdriver, its difficult to tell from your picture, have a look on the end where the coil retaining ring screws on it may have an indent, hold it in the vice by the hexagon give it a push and see if it opens.

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again Paul in my conversation with Tim at fluidlink I said to him mine definitely only has one power wire and he was of the same opinion as me that the coil is earthed when it is screwed into the pump body which in turn is earthed through the mountings or cable to the vehicle, as I said at the start of this thread I am no electrical whiz kid but that is the only way it could work with only 1 power wire, there are no signs of any other connection having ever been on it Chris

 

[the snooper]

have you retested the coil now its off the valve body just incase there was no connection between the two

 

[chrisf1]

The coil and valve are now apart as can bee seen in earlier pics but I am going to reassemble tomorrow because I am pretty sure it was seized so probably would not have worked anyway thoughts on this are welcome and how to test now in bits thanks Chris

 

[the snooper]

test the coil again with the meter one probe to the wire and the other probe to the metal part of the coil.
dont use a low setting on the meter use something higher then 1k ohms and if you get any reading the coil is good

 

[chrisf1]

Thanks I will try tommorow and post results Thanks Chris

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone I bow my head in humbleness to your superior knowledge after thinking about the terminals I decided to have another look and under years of muck and abuse I found a terminal that had sheared of below the level of the plastic and a quick mess about with the soldering iron and connection to a battery and hey presto the lowering valve is now working thanks for your help everyone Chris

 

[madkayaker]

Result

 

[conor1242]

Hi there i have just been given this same pump i only have the one solenoid lowering valve do i need the other starter solenoid to make it work