how to remove rust spots in hard to reach places?

[RichG]

Im in the process of replacing a rear wheel arch tub but noticed i have small spots of rust on the inside of the C pillar. I believe this is where ground metal shards have landed on good metal from previous grinding. I don't intend to replace the complete rear quarter and I can't get my arm up to sand it back.

Anybody have any ideas what I could use or do to get rid of it? I'm thinking of applying hydrate 80 as I could reach up with a paint brush on a stick lol

any advice or tips would be much appreciated.

thanks

Rich

 

[andeep]

Apply Deox-gel to the area

 

[Punx0r]

I like to spray (or brush) cavity wax absolutely everywhere I can...

A good wax like Dynax S50 will arrest existing surface corrosion (their claims and my experience).

There are also plenty of thin rust converters (rust buster, jenolite) that could easily be sprayed into difficult areas.

There's mixed opinion on using a converter and then a wax. Some say they compliment, others say the converter interferes with the wax.

 

[RichG]

Apply Deox-gel to the area

if i put deox in the cavity there is no way to rinse it off afterwards.

 

[RichG]

I like to spray (or brush) cavity wax absolutely everywhere I can...

A good wax like Dynax S50 will arrest existing surface corrosion (their claims and my experience).

There are also plenty of thin rust converters (rust buster, jenolite) that could easily be sprayed into difficult areas.

There's mixed opinion on using a converter and then a wax. Some say they compliment, others say the converter interferes with the wax.

thanks for the response. I will eventually us Dynax S50, in all the nooks and crannies but will check with Bilt Hamber to see whether I can over coat Hydrate 80 with S50.

thanks for your response.

 

[s410man]

sorry for the slight hijack but

the only place i have ever sen this stuff used is on wheeler dealers

is it good-it claims to transform flaky rust to a solid metal

how effective is it at stopping new rust forming when exposed to dirt road salt etc

thanks

 

[Punx0r]

Is it a particular product you're thinking of?

 

[steveo3002]

sorry for the slight hijack but

the only place i have ever sen this stuff used is on wheeler dealers

is it good-it claims to transform flaky rust to a solid metal

how effective is it at stopping new rust forming when exposed to dirt road salt etc

thanks

nothing transforms flakey rust into good metal..other than a welder

dont believe everything you see on tv

 

[Wedg1e]

sorry for the slight hijack but

the only place i have ever sen this stuff used is on wheeler dealers

is it good-it claims to transform flaky rust to a solid metal

how effective is it at stopping new rust forming when exposed to dirt road salt etc

thanks

Essentially that's the same claim for all phosphoric-acid based products like Jenolite. It neutralises the ferric oxide but doesn't convert it to anything structurally useful, just slows the spread of rust. It won't stop new rust forming either; you need a coating - or stainless steel

 

[Punx0r]

Actually, I believe the layer of iron phosphate it leaves behind is supposed to protect the steel to some extent (being a stable(ish) oxide film IIRC).

Not exactly a substitute for paint though

 

[Wedg1e]

Actually, I believe the layer of iron phosphate it leaves behind is supposed to protect the steel to some extent (being a stable(ish) oxide film IIRC).

Not exactly a substitute for paint though

Hmmm, I think I interpreted it as stopping new rust on the adjacent area, but I take your point.

 

[jim painter]

The only real way to stop rust is to cut it out. Rust converters wont work over flakey metal either. You need to remove all the flakey stuff and get it to solid (haha) rust. I hope that makes sense

 

[s410man]

nothing transforms flakey rust into good metal..other than a welder

dont believe everything you see on tv

thought the claims were a bit good

but still a good product though?

 

[nickk]

The only real way to stop rust is to cut it out. Rust converters wont work over flakey metal either. You need to remove all the flakey stuff and get it to solid (haha) rust. I hope that makes sense

here here,in 30 years of bodging i've tried 'trustan 23' & jenolite-it comes back in a month!

 

[flash of light]

[/ATTACH]

i use this stuff in a spray bottle neat, with eye and breathing protection. its whats in most anti rust products aswell as coke, just this stuff is very much stronger. find it at most farmer type stores.

 

[kelsham]

Trustan,Jenolite, Rust remedy, Hydrate80 etc. Will only leave a layer of treated metal on the surface. If the rust is deep they only cover the top layer.

They all require a primer coat and then topcoats to give any long lasting protection.

It is correct to say remove all the rust. Of course this is often impossible due to car bodies being made of overlapping metal, spot welded together.

It is best to think of any steps taken as being temporary. regular attention and checking in the future will be the best guarantee of keeping the rust at bay.

Once you have attended to the rust to the best of your ability, use a wax treatment from Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber on top and replenish every two or three years.

Regards Kels.

 

[nickk]

Trustan,Jenolite, Rust remedy, Hydrate80 etc. Will only leave a layer of treated metal on the surface. If the rust is deep they only cover the top layer.

They all require a primer coat and then topcoats to give any long lasting protection.

It is correct to say remove all the rust. Of course this is often impossible due to car bodies being made of overlapping metal, spot welded together.

It is best to think of any steps taken as being temporary. regular attention and checking in the future will be the best guarantee of keeping the rust at bay.

Once you have attended to the rust to the best of your ability, use a wax treatment from Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber on top and replenish every two or three years.

I've followed that procedure each time ......& it still comes back.