Hi to all,

[uslot]

First off what a great site! One minute I'm in the garage feeling very anti mig next thing here I am. I think I'm actually rather pleased the welder decided to go on the blink. Well nearly.
I have been hooked on sports/race cars ever since I can remember, restoration often being the only path to ownership. Who was it said, "you get as much fun out of restoring a car as driving it"? I'd like to met him he could fix my migwelder. The welder oh yes, its a Britweld 155s a lovely tool except at the moment the wire feeder won't feed wire, I think I have traced the fault to a break or gap in the pcb everything else seems to work ok.
So if anybody knows a place near Uxbridge/Slough area please let me know.

 

[andypocock]

So if anybody knows a place near Uxbridge/Slough area please let me know.

Iver Heath

 

[rtbcomp]

Iver Heath

Welcome Uslot!

At least the amount of help you'll get from other members can only improve

 

[Omniata]

If you can get a photo of the PCB up on here and it's not too complicated someone may be able to "make" something for you to replace it and get it working again...

 

[uslot]

Welcome Uslot!

At least the amount of help you'll get from other members can only improve

Thank you.

And Amen to that.

 

[andypocock]

Sorry

 

[bill_gj]

We understand Andy. You probably meant Iver Biggun.

 

[mileshc]

Welcome & hi from a fellow fairly new person.

Cracks in PCB's. It is not too difficult to repair these if you have a soldering Iron & some flux cored solder & some solid cored wire & a sharp blade.

If the tracks on the pcb are coated, painted (not shiny tin) you will need to gently scape, abrade it off, either side of the physical break. Scalpel, X-acto of other blade

With a clean tipped soldering iron, tin the tip with solder, then tin(apply a little bit) either side of the cleaned PCB track at the break.

Now with the solid core wire (of suitable size also tinned preferably) Place over the crack & solder in place. Sometimes you can just use the solder & no wire at all. But mechanically using wire is better. IMHO.

Don't forget to look for dry joints too. And Do not put bloody great snotty blobs of solder on. Look at waht is there already as a guide. Sometimes flux is required, it is available in spray (aersol) cans.

There may be a local power tools repair shop or perhaps bettera TV or similar electronics repair centre who given the PCB, could effect an repair. I used to do this on occasion, so phone around a bit. i.e. industrial repair etc.

Elecrolytic Capcitors can fail & are easy (mostly to spot) the end is distended, expanded , domed. Not flat, or they simply leak.

Theres more as always, but that's a start?

Ohh, don't burn your fingers ;-)

 

[uslot]

Thanks for the info, the printed circuit track is repaired and guess what, the wire feed is still the b----y same. I did a visual check of the pcb with a magnifying glass and it all looks good. so, it looks like its time to educate myself in the ways of the magic multi meter. If, or rather when I get that eureka moment I'll let you know.