Henderson Up & Over - Increasing security?

[steviec_lj]

I've seen a bit of talk about how sh..rubbish these doors are, and that they can be opened relatively easily with a screwdriver.

Question is, what can be done about it?

I've got three to look at sorting out, and I've come up with the following;

20mm SHS, riveted into the edges to increase resistace to the bottom being pulled out.

Sprung bolts and steel plates bolted in to the floor, again to prevent the bottom being pulled out.

What replacement locks are available for them, that could increase security?

Bearing in mind that for two of these doors they'd have to get passed three cars, two locked gates, two trailers before they got to the doors, then the doors would be a struggle to open because of everything behind them.

The third door looks to have been tried in the past, hence putting some box section down the edges, to add a little strength.

Any other pointers?

 

[Maker]

Ford34/2 suggested a lock to me that would be perfect, I'll post a link tomorrow.

 

[the snooper]

locks in the corners forget the terrible things in the centre of the doors cheap alloy rubbish

 

[steviec_lj]

locks in the corners forget the terrible things in the centre of the doors cheap alloy rubbish

Locks at the bottom is simple enough as I've concrete to fix in to, but the top is a wooden frame that is recessed into a block wall.

A mate, term used loosely, started to tell me about a product Birkdale used to make to reinforce the doors, then got a phone call, changed the subject and I haven't heard from him for four months.

 

[optima21]

if you dont need to get into the garage by the up and over door, you can disconnect the lock mechanism from the wire that operates the lock. my up and over door is curently screwed to the frame, as I normally open it less than once a year, as there has been a car in it for 18 years that hasnt moved

 

[DAPPH]

Steve,
A bar across the inside of the door about 18 inches from the top edge helps if you have access from the inside. I used to slip a scaffold tube in to a bracket that was chemical anchored at one side and then clipped up & padlocked the opposite end up . The door could not be opened much past 8 inches at the bottom. I fitted four 1 " angle iron strip vertically each about a metre long to give a bit of lower level reinforcement .
A friend put some large hoops on reinforcing plates at each bottom corner of the door and then added some anchor pplates set with chemical anchors using break off screw heads so that they could slide a scaffold bar in the hoops and padlock the tube to the outer hoop /plate with a high security bolt type padlock going through the hoop .

My bro's garage is in a rat run by the terraced local authority housing where all manner of monsters roam during the hours of darkness., it's not visible by anyone in the surrounding properties . After it being broken into three times it now has welded up EXPAMET internal roofing on angle irons right across the roof & has chemical anchored girt big heavy duty staple and hasps at the floor corners
Across the front of the door I bolted a 50 x 50 x 5 mm angle iron to stop some using a spade & a scissor car jack to lift it up easily in the middle .
All the bolts are the break off head type security bolts put in with Hilti chemical anchors as this makes the fixing stress free and very very strong .


My own garage has a thick steel angle iron section on a full timber cross beam stop at the top of the door frame that protects the simple slide in bolt /peg to stop the screw driver brigade getting easy access.
There is also a 400 mm sliding bolt that is lockable with a close shackle bolt type lock in the middle of the door that drops the 19 mm square drop bolt some 75 mm down into the concrete .

If someone is really determined they will use a vehicle to pull the door off/out or use a crow bar to push the sides in enough to get access ..that's when you have to have a microwave alarm and WIFI CCTV working for you as well .
A lock only stops an honest person from becoming a thief .

 

[Maker]

This is that lock.

 

[BoatBuilderDave]

Is it worth having some very visible security to stop them from trying and making a mess, in addition to heavy bolts/bars inside?
The bolts/bars inside may stop them from succeeding, but they may have done a lot of damage before they quit.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

My lock-up had such a door and I was paranoid about a break in so made a second mesh door that was just behind the outer up and over. The frame was scaffolding / Keeklamps so freestanding but too heavy to be moved by hand. The mesh doors were then simply padlocked together. Wouldn't stop a determined thief but would delay an opportunist.

 

[pondy]

This is that lock.

Have one of these in each corner of my up and over door. Painted bolt heads and key hole cover the same as the door so its hard to notice them

 

[skotl]

This is that lock.

I have them, too. Mine are on the bottom of the door and the bolt extends around 5" into concrete.

My concern, though, is that a crowbar will just pull the bottom of the door away from the concrete so I'd been thinking about a box section square fitted around the internal edges of the door (this may be what Stevie is suggesting but I'm not sure).

I actually have another two of these locks and I'd been considering putting them on the verticals, too, but can't be ****d at the thought of using two keys to undo four bolts. That's just dumb, though, and I know I'll kick myself if I get broken into.

 

[roofman]

Went to a set of lock-ups a couple of months ago and some rat had cut a perfect 3ft x 3ft hole in the bottom corner with a cordless grinder and 1mm disc...something to think about regarding putting plate on the inside before you go down the locks route

 

[Bede]

I'm about to buy a motorbike and my garage doors, both front and rear need replacing. The rear because it's rotten and the front because it's ill-fitting and a bit tired. It's a tin up and over job.

I looked at new up and overs and automated rollers. I can't see much security in any of them really so I'm gonna make my own single for the rear and a double pair of swing doors at the front to replace the up & over. I've just made a series of ridiculously heavy security doors for a supplier that has just bought a new premises. I'm gonna make myself something much the same for security reasons. The front won't look as tidy or domestic as a nice automated roller but at least no swine will be having away with my motorbike or gym equipment. They're 6mm plate!

 

[roofman]

I'm about to buy a motorbike and my garage doors, both front and rear need replacing. The rear because it's rotten and the front because it's ill-fitting and a bit tired. It's a tin up and over job.

I looked at new up and overs and automated rollers. I can't see much security in any of them really so I'm gonna make my own single for the rear and a double pair of swing doors at the front to replace the up & over. I've just made a series of ridiculously heavy security doors for a supplier that has just bought a new premises. I'm gonna make myself something much the same for security reasons. The front won't look as tidy or domestic as a nice automated roller but at least no swine will be having away with my motorbike or gym equipment.

exposed hinges..no good,2 mins with my Sthil and ime in...

 

[zx9]

exposed hinges..no good,2 mins with my Sthil and ime in...

Could add internal bolts to the hinge side too.

 

[roofman]

Could add internal bolts to the hinge side too.

yes but only usable locking from inside

 

[zx9]

yes but only usable locking from inside

As are the ones on the lock plate side, I assumed it was a second exit and bolted at night before the ocupant exits via the main / front doors.

 

[Bede]

Those are covered by roller shutters now, hence the exposed hinges.

If someone's gonna kick a Stihlsaw in at my house to do away with my bike they'll either get away with it, regardless of whether they cut the hinges and internal deadbolts or rip a hole in the plate to get inside, or they're gonna get a baseball bat to the face accidentally. Several times. If someone's gonna go to those lengths, they'll get in regardless of what security you have. They won't do it quietly though.

 

[roofman]

As are the ones on the lock plate side, I assumed it was a second exit and bolted at night before the ocupant exits via the main / front doors.

thats ok as i persumed it was the only door so that makes us even

 

[Maker]

exposed hinges..no good,2 mins with my Sthil and ime in...

You wouldn't even need a Sthil, someone on here, (Wedg1e I think) said someone tried to break into his shipping container by hacksawing the hinges off. You could make it so it opens inwards though.