- Thread starter carl0s
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carl0s
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Right, so P4 in the parts diagram does fit with my hypothesis about a potential spring.. (picture is v4 but v2 looks the same in diagram that I have).
but 2200hl.v2-p04 does not seem to be available online.
I suppose I am going to have to pull the ram apart and see anyway.
but 2200hl.v2-p04 does not seem to be available online.
I suppose I am going to have to pull the ram apart and see anyway.
I think you are going to have to take it apart, IMO it's not usable as it's clearly faulty. I've had good luck stripping cleaning and reassembling things like this, sometimes there is nothing visibly wrong with any of the parts so put it down to probably a bit of dirt somewhere.
I'm sure Weber UK would be abler to get parts if they are compatible.
I'm sure Weber UK would be abler to get parts if they are compatible.
Moose McAlpine
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I bought a seal kit for my 2200HL. Only one place listed it, i'll try find who it was.
carl0s
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Thank you. I know ccw-tools have the seal kit and various other bits. No big spring though. I'll take it apart.
Moose McAlpine
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I think it may've been them that supplied it, but like many Sealey sellers it shipped directly from Sealey so i'm sure they could source it for you.
I'll have a look at how mine operates because i'm sure it did odd stuff too after i replaced the flexible tube that runs alongside the ram. I think i had to bleed the reservoir in some awkward way.
If they are a copy/compatible, i've dealt with Weber UK and they're great.
carl0s
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cheers. the only guidance and instructions I have on air bleeding though is to pump handle with release valve open, and unfortunately this doesn't help.
There is some kind of bleed hole a the bottom though. it might just be for emptying the fluid from the ram. it's a grub screw / ball-bearing seal.
pedrobedro
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That sounds more like a pressure relief than a bleed or anything else. The symptoms are like air trapped somewhere, can you press the jack back down after it has lifted ?
carl0s
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I've had a go at it this evening, not really got anywhere. I'm going to need a 48mm impact socket to get the top nut off the ram. I have 50mm and 55mm, but nothing else over 40-ish :-/
I messed around with it for ages. it's a pain in the **** because it's so big and heavy.
I can't see how you can operate the release valve by hand or tool when you just have the ram on the bench / floor, due to the dead-man's lift/release mechanism. That makes it a real pain in the **** to tinker with.
so I opened the pressure relief valve at the bottom, and sure enough it sprung back down - so the spring is fine. I, and a good portion of the garage, got sprayed in hydraulic oil. This happened a second time later ;-)
It does seem like air is ending up in the wrong place, but it seems like the only way to get this air out is by coercing it out the pressure-relief screw at the bottom - the one that you absolutely musn't take all the way out while the ram is extended.
It seems like air is making it into the hydraulic area as the unit is extended, or oil *isn't* making it in there.
The other thing I was going to say is that it's clear that the most obvious symptom is: There is either too little fluid to extend the ram, or too much to lower it. That is what it mostly comes down to. It either won't extend unless you keep topping it up along the way, but then it won't' lower further than about half way down.
Could the release valve be bad? might that explain why I can't seem to pump air out the 'normal' way? (pump with release valve/handle turned)
I'm going to have to think whether it's worth any more time and mess.. I hate not winning at fixing stuff though
I messed around with it for ages. it's a pain in the **** because it's so big and heavy.
I can't see how you can operate the release valve by hand or tool when you just have the ram on the bench / floor, due to the dead-man's lift/release mechanism. That makes it a real pain in the **** to tinker with.
so I opened the pressure relief valve at the bottom, and sure enough it sprung back down - so the spring is fine. I, and a good portion of the garage, got sprayed in hydraulic oil. This happened a second time later ;-)
It does seem like air is ending up in the wrong place, but it seems like the only way to get this air out is by coercing it out the pressure-relief screw at the bottom - the one that you absolutely musn't take all the way out while the ram is extended.
It seems like air is making it into the hydraulic area as the unit is extended, or oil *isn't* making it in there.
The other thing I was going to say is that it's clear that the most obvious symptom is: There is either too little fluid to extend the ram, or too much to lower it. That is what it mostly comes down to. It either won't extend unless you keep topping it up along the way, but then it won't' lower further than about half way down.
Could the release valve be bad? might that explain why I can't seem to pump air out the 'normal' way? (pump with release valve/handle turned)
I'm going to have to think whether it's worth any more time and mess.. I hate not winning at fixing stuff though
Last edited:
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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In the past i have over filled the ram with fluid and put the jack through its motion expelling any trapped air, messy job but it made it better and smoother, checker the relief valve has not got any dirt under it. Another way ive used in the past is jack the car up and when dropping the jack open it fully and let the car slam it down fast, this can expell the air also. Ive found jacks at scrap yards which had the same uneven dropping and with time and fettling i have brought them back. One last thing, have you tried changing the fluid brand, some fluids i have used have a strange "sticking" property on jacks but are perfect on high pressure pump applications.
Start by bleeding it. Open the valve to drop it right down, then pump the handle a dozen times or so, close the valve and try it again. That sometimes works.
If not, it probably needs a seal kit. The seals can get a bit of the lip which turns inside out under pressure and that would make it slow. But it needs taking apart to know for sure. However, that issue with it springing back a bit it a good sign of this.
There won’t be anything wrong with the spring in all probability, but it won’t work as well if there is a tight seal.
Strip it, clean it, inspect all the seals and go from there.
If not, it probably needs a seal kit. The seals can get a bit of the lip which turns inside out under pressure and that would make it slow. But it needs taking apart to know for sure. However, that issue with it springing back a bit it a good sign of this.
There won’t be anything wrong with the spring in all probability, but it won’t work as well if there is a tight seal.
Strip it, clean it, inspect all the seals and go from there.
carl0s
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Thanks guys, thanks very much for the guidance, and encouragement to carry on 
I will start by getting a 48mm impact socket to make sure I can actually get the top nut off the ram. If I need to get the ram body (cylinder tube) out of the pump then I have no idea, I think I might get stuck.
If I can get it apart then I'll order the seal kit for £25.
I need to sort out the work area a bit better though in terms of catching the mess and holding the ram in vices/blocks or something.
If I am going to replace it in the end then I'll spend the extra £150 on the Weber/AC 1.3T HLJ as it is about 25% lighter and strong enough for what I do.
Oh, and some new hydraulic fluid - yes - I had been thinking about that. I have had this 5L bottle of Clarke/Machine mart stuff for about 10 years and it's all gone now anyway.
I will start by getting a 48mm impact socket to make sure I can actually get the top nut off the ram. If I need to get the ram body (cylinder tube) out of the pump then I have no idea, I think I might get stuck.If I can get it apart then I'll order the seal kit for £25.
I need to sort out the work area a bit better though in terms of catching the mess and holding the ram in vices/blocks or something.
If I am going to replace it in the end then I'll spend the extra £150 on the Weber/AC 1.3T HLJ as it is about 25% lighter and strong enough for what I do.
Oh, and some new hydraulic fluid - yes - I had been thinking about that. I have had this 5L bottle of Clarke/Machine mart stuff for about 10 years and it's all gone now anyway.
