Help with , Floor Patch panel repair on Jag XJS

[540itouring]

Hi , i am repairing some parts of my floor that has rusted on my jaguar xjs. I have drilled the spot welds out and removed the plate that mounts under where the rust has started. I will be making the plates to repair the holes and i have just made the first plate. I have put a step around the edge the same shape as the hole and i think it will be fine but would like to ask you first. I plan to mig weld this plate all around the edge taking care not to over heat the metal and was going to tack weld first to stop it moving. The sheet is approc 0.9mm thick and i have a ESAB Caddy C200i and you can easy set the metal thickness. This is new to me and if i am to weld around the edge of the 0.9mm new plate and the old floor is also approx 0.9mm would i set the welder for 1mm thickness or is it the thickness of the two plates added together even if i am welding the edge of the top plate to the top of the floor. Any advice please with thanks in advance.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=62092248A33A16EB&id=62092248A33A16EB!872

 

[cumbriasteve]

Use 2 bits of the steel you are using to patch and have a trial run, adjusting the power as low as you can and still obtaining a decent weld

 

[mike 109444]

You might want to read tutorials at top of page ref thin metal tec and as steve said practice FIRST! Also if this is your first go at welding on hidded parts of a car have you removed all surounding underseal (cos it burns quit well under the car while you are above!) Then have you checked the location of the petrol pipes/break pipes. Have you got a big bucket of water/fire extingusher ready......

 

[Iain Westland]

as they both said...

Tacks starting in corners, then the middle of each side, then the middle of each gap (but keep swapping sides as you do this) and keep going till you get to about 1-1.5 inch gaps and seam those... unless your inside the car rather than under it..

and again, make sure you have cleaned off both sides fully!!!! Underseal catches just a bit quicker than panel deadener... and that will catch just with a spark

 

[keith19]

As above, very important to check all these things before you start.

A mate and I set a Mini on fire once, because we didn't check the owner had waxoyled inside closed panels and all inside the rear floor. Luckily only new rear seats were needed because we had a fire blanket handy. But it taught us a lesson!

Set the ESAB to 1mm to practice, see if that does the job nicely. You may have to set it a fraction higher for tacks, see how it goes. Don't forget to try to break a few practice welds apart when you think you've got it set up right, before you start on the real job.

 

[540itouring]

Ok thanks for all the advice and will remove the underseal first. I will let you know how i get on when i start but will make the other plates up first.

 

[kelsham]

Don't forget to disconnect the alternator and battery before starting.

I have an XJS cabriolet. I was welding, thought I had finished the job and replaced the connectors, found another spot that needed attention.

Halfway through remembered the alternator. Too late. One new alternator required two weeks later. Coincidence? Possibly, do you feel lucky?

XJS are great cars and greatly underated which makes them available to the enthusiast.

Regards Kels.

 

[540itouring]

I have the battery off any way as i disconeted it before i removed the seats etc . I work with electronics so have no problems with electronics but can do with help from members that have done more welding than i have. I like the XJS cars and i have a rare 1994 built 6.0L V12 that was registered in MAY 96 (N). Have you checked the footwells and seatbelt mountings in the floor for rust on your XJS as i would say they are all going to rust in these parts. I must be a JAG nut as i have a 95, XJR6 , 96XJS and 04 XK8 and like them all and take the xjs to car shows in summer.

Don't forget to disconnect the alternator and battery before starting.

I have an XJS cabriolet. I was welding, thought I had finished the job and replaced the connectors, found another spot that needed attention.

Halfway through remembered the alternator. Too late. One new alternator required two weeks later. Coincidence? Possibly, do you feel lucky?

XJS are great cars and greatly underated which makes them available to the enthusiast.

Regards Kels.

 

[kelsham]

Yes I had to do some welding round the rear radius arm mountings. I keep a look out underneath regularly.
As to welding, only advice is to make sure the metal is shiney clean before starting.

My current problem is the hood rear window is cracked. Hoods for the cabriolet cost more than the value of the car. I am looking for an industrial sewing machine, will try to make my own.
Regards Kels.

 

[paul_f]

My current problem is the hood rear window is cracked. Hoods for the cabriolet cost more than the value of the car. I am looking for an industrial sewing machine, will try to make my own.

See if you can find a small one man trimming company, replacing just screens is a common job as 80s and 90s cabrios commonly had rear screens go cloudy

 

[gavuk]

For Hoods etc try Jack Smith's in Swansea.well known to the mx5 and golf cabriolet communities....had a canvas roof made and fitted with a new headlining as well for £300 3-4 years ago....they may be able to help...

 

[kelsham]

Thanks for the contact. The problem with XJS cabriolet hood is their complexity.The later convertible hoods are much more normally priced.
I have bought a second hood to dismantle as a pattern and am seriously thinking of attempting to make a replacement.
Last quote was two thousand five hundred pounds, gulp.

Regards Kels.