hand torch or foot pedal

[langy]

Must admit I've never got on with the 4T, it's a pain to use

 

[Richard.]

If I'm doing a long run and feeding full lengths through my fingers I actually prefer 4t if I'm on the switch. It allows me to start it up and then just forget about the switch till I'm gonna start sloping.

 

[Hood]

I like 4T on the Parweld, I can be running along and find I need to reposition myself so just tap the button and it drops to the initial current, tap again and it increases to the main current and I can continue welding.

Now when I say the initial current, it says that is what it is in the manual but it doesn't seem like that to me. I was thinking it would be very handy for Alu as I could have the initial current set to maybe 10 amps less than the main current, I could then be running along and when the Alu is starting to head I could tap the button and it would drop down that 10 amps and I could continue. Sadly the current doesn't seem to be true as when I tap even if I have it set to the same current then it drops too low to weld, tap again and it raises to main. It is still handy as it can be used kind of like a very slow pulse to allow the heat to disperse slightly.

On the TecArc I used to sometimes use 2T with a longish slope down and I could do similar by just releasing the button then pressing again before the arc extinguished, so again kind of like a slow manual pulse.
When using the torch with the button/pot on it with the TecArc I would use 4T as it then allowed me to adjust the current via the pot.
Sadly the Parweld doesn't allow 4T when using the button/pot. I have emailed Parweld asking if there is a way to use 4T with it but no reply yet after a couple of days, hopefully they will get back with an answer.

 

[carbon]

If it's a v160 then the remote pin out connections are shown on page F-1 of the manual. Not sure if the markings match the front socket though V160 manual​

 

[hotrodder]

The problem here is that I do much better welds if I hold the torch close to the neck, almost like holding a pen and when holding it this way, the only way I can press the switch button is by using my little finger...making things a bit shaky...

I get holding the torch further back on the handle exaggerates any DTs but in the long run you'll benefit as it's often more difficult to manipulate the torch if holding it right up near the head and sometimes need to hold the thing in all sorts of weird ways to get at the joint

 

[Agroshield]

I did think about doing a simple foot switch just for on and off, but haven't tried that yet, didn't want to mess up the torch if that wasnt possible.

Maybe I'll look into adapting one with more pins? there's one currently on ebay for 100 quid, but it's a 7 pin.

Using a simple foot switch involves no modifications to the torch so it is not possible to mess it up. Just do not plug in the electrical bit of the torch. All you need to do is buy the switch and the correct plug that fits the welder. Generally the plug will be the most expensive bit especially if bought off a welding supplier. The plug will be something from some manufacturer's standard range. If you are lucky, it will be an Amphenol MIL one, which are available from many suppliers - the trick is to get the correct part number, but with intelligent perusal of the manufactiurer's catalogue, this is easy.

The number of pins in the plug on the pedal is misleading as any kind of guide. The number of pins is more a function of the style and size of connection plug the machine manufacturer has chosen to use (i.e. it may only need five pins but if a five pin plug/socket is difficult to get or expensive, they will use six or seven pins). Whatever the number of pins, at the pedal end there are only five wires (pins) needed on every machine (two for the switch, three for current control). At the machine end, some manufacturers leave extra pins unconnected, some use two pins connected together to signal that a pedal is being used.

What is important if you go for the eBay one is to check the range of the potentiometer in the pedal is correct for the machine manufacturer. I had a quick look at an Invertec 160 manual and I couldn't find the number listed. Once you do find the correct pot, it is easy to change them over.

 

[langy]

I get holding the torch further back on the handle exaggerates any DTs but in the long run you'll benefit as it's often more difficult to manipulate the torch if holding it right up near the head and sometimes need to hold the thing in all sorts of weird ways to get at the joint

And hot