- Thread starter OJM
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i use this all the time, good tool!! Ant! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10MM-AIR-FING...sors?hash=item5187c39cb0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
danelectro
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I always use a 36 grit fibre disc on a grinder, always gives a good finish.
Don't use a grinding disc, it'll look horrible
Don't use a grinding disc, it'll look horrible
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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I have some 40 grit fibre disks and a flexible nylon backing pad and they do a brilliant job without taking too much off. They last well and cost about 30p each when I bought them and £3 for the grinder backing pad. You need to be an artist to use grinding disks, I always end up gouging something nearby
danelectro
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I have some 40 grit fibre disks and a flexible nylon backing pad and they do a brilliant job without taking too much off. They last well and cost about 30p each when I bought them and £3 for the grinder backing pad. You need to be an artist to use grinding disks, I always end up gouging something nearby
Absolutely right!! Got to say the use of grinding discs always makes the job look like it's been in a war!!!!!
Hello all,
personally I find a grinding disc is more accurate as it doesn't follow undulations as much as a flap disc or flexible pad. I remove the bulk with a grinding disc and finish with a flap disc if a better finish is required.
On car work, as I use oxy acetylene I have minimal grinding to do anyway.
Alec
personally I find a grinding disc is more accurate as it doesn't follow undulations as much as a flap disc or flexible pad. I remove the bulk with a grinding disc and finish with a flap disc if a better finish is required.
On car work, as I use oxy acetylene I have minimal grinding to do anyway.
Alec
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Not so much cars, but general fabrication work, i find that a nice job can be ruined by agressive use of a grinding disc on corners etc, dressing off welds.
I use a flap disc for this reason - usually 60 grit, which gives a nice neat finish.
Often when something is coated afterwards - and it has a gloss finish - it can make ground-flat welds look horrible - even if ground flush very carefully. Not even noticable when a flap disc has been used.
Hitch even uses sanding pads to sand flush welds iirc. He's posh though.
I use a flap disc for this reason - usually 60 grit, which gives a nice neat finish.
Often when something is coated afterwards - and it has a gloss finish - it can make ground-flat welds look horrible - even if ground flush very carefully. Not even noticable when a flap disc has been used.
Hitch even uses sanding pads to sand flush welds iirc. He's posh though.
Hello Paul,
"Not even noticable when a flap disc has been used."
I defy anyone to get a nice smooth 'invisible' join using a hand held angle grinder with whatever abrasive medium you chose. A shiny surface reflects the slightest deviation. That's why body men use flat sanders.
Incidentally, Rolls Royce radiators were fabricated and although they look flat they were built with a slight curvature as it was easier to finish than if they were truly flat and square.
Alec
"Not even noticable when a flap disc has been used."
I defy anyone to get a nice smooth 'invisible' join using a hand held angle grinder with whatever abrasive medium you chose. A shiny surface reflects the slightest deviation. That's why body men use flat sanders.
Incidentally, Rolls Royce radiators were fabricated and although they look flat they were built with a slight curvature as it was easier to finish than if they were truly flat and square.
Alec
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It's not hard - bear in mind i'm talking fabricated steelwork, not car bodywork.
Next time you see a handrail joint in stainless steel - look for the join...if it's been done by someone who is good at what they do, you won't see the join.
