Gates help needed

[rosinante]

Hi all,
I am considering making a pair of gates for my drive to replace the rotten wooden ones each leaf will be a notional 1200mm x 1900 high, the idea is to make the frame from 40x40 with 20 x20 to form a rebate into which a wooden panelling will sit,the existing posts are 100 x 50 is thick wall channel which are to stay,I would appreciate advice on the hinging and locking,the gate needs to be operable by key from the outside and by hand from the inside,all help and advice welcome,pictures even better, I will shamelessly plagiarise !!!! thanks in advance

chris

 

[Engineer1964]

Hi Chris,

If you go here you can view a large selection of gate hardware to buy

http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/groups/13S__Swing_Gates

 

[KemppiFrog]

Just built some garage doors for a friend's daughter.
Opening was 3.000 wide by 2.500 high. Tube was 40x2mm for the exterior frame. The infill was T&G 27mm pine.
After welding up the two frames, I added 20x5 strip to the top and bottom tubes, drilled to bolt the planks. At half height I added a cross piece of 25x3 angle, to maintain the width. Then added diagonals in the same section from the top of the hinge side to the other side at half height and the same in the lower half. These were all spaced to allow the planks to be bolted to them, if needed.
Since this was for a closed space, rather than gates. The locking system is less interesting. A handle on the outside with two latches inside. Space far a decent padlock, with protection against croppers.
KF

 

[rosinante]

Thanks fellas,stiil need some design ideas though, I have difficulty with picturing what I want in my head, need to copy unfortunately as not good at design,
Cheers
Chris

 

[KemppiFrog]

A very common door lock here has a key operated dead bolt, but on the inside there is a knob that winds it back, so no key needed.

 

[Powermyster]

I used 40x40 box to construct my gate. To put the wood in the bottom I used 20x3 flat on its edge and screwed the wood on from the inside. There should be some pictures on it on here somewhere

 

[johnny max]

If you are using 20mm box to bolt or screw timber to keep it up 75mm and down 75mm, if not you will end up cracking the boards as it is too close to edge.
Johnny

 

[stuvy]

I used 40x40 box to construct my gate. To put the wood in the bottom I used 20x3 flat on its edge and screwed the wood on from the inside. There should be some pictures on it on here somewhere

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=33719

 

[Powermyster]

Cheers Stuvy. I kept the 20x3 at the top and bottom but pre drilled the hardwood!

I'm not sure what kind of lock you would use on a pair of gates to give the desired result, the lock you described seems better suited to a single gate. Depending on the length and fit on the dead bolt it may pull out if both gates were opened together

 

[KemppiFrog]

One assumes that the leaf without the lock is bolted to the centre stop. So the lock acts as if on a single leaf into a frame.


To add: Quite common around here is a 'prop' consisting of a forged length of iron with a ring in the ground about 1.5mt back from the centre of the gates, that hooks into a another ring on the back of the leaf that is without the lock. Since this is on gates made from riveted wrought iron, mostly angle, it must be to try and stiffen up the torsional problems. (very common with angle iron gates, flap all over the place)

One set I repaired a year ago, one of the stone pillars had moved, so the leaf hinged on that, grounded at the middle. He was looking at at biggish bill by a mason to rebuild it.
I fixed the gates (probably around 100+yrs old) and re-hung them. Surprise, the grounding one was clear and swung freely. Very happy client, who added a bit to the bill. Apart from the pillar, I think the gate had sagged, and in the rebuild, I had corrected that.