garage lining/insulating.

[Park_monkey]

Hello all.
I have a double concrete section garage/workshop that i am in the process of making some alterations to.
I got planning permission to raise the roof a couple of foot as its too low at the moment to be really usefull and once that is done i will be insulating it and lining it.
I have a load of rolls of insulation that i acquired when i worked on site a while back and a good stack of reclaimed, plastic coated, box profile sheets. They are actually the lining sheets that go on the inside of commercial buildings so i was originally thinking they would be ideal. After reading up on the subject I am a little concerned I may have a problem with condensation if i use these sheets!
I get alot of water dripping from the roof at the moment at its only a thin corrugated tin roof so was going to insulate that too.
My plan is to-
-silicone between all the panels and lay a fillet of cement round the bottom.
-stick timber batons to the panels then line the garage with visquine.
-fill in between the timber batons with the fibreglass insulation.
-fix the lining sheets over the top to the timber batons.
is there anything else i can do to prevent condensation or am i better of scrapping the sheets and using plasterboard or ply?

Any advice greatly appreciated, I really need to start making the most of this garage rather than it just being full of crap all the time.
cheers.

 

[cumbriasteve]

I cured mine..the steel box profile sheets which were a nightmare during winter, I put a plasterboard ceiling with an 8" gap filled with loft insulation, worked a treat.

Condensation will still cause black mould if there is not moving air, to cure this I drilled some 50mm holes in the walls, near the top...just 2 each side and covered them with the plastic vents.

I have got through this year with not a bit of condensation and only one little patch of mould the size of an envelope in one corner...it wipes off easily though.

The same principle will work for walls or ceilings.

 

[Park_monkey]

so i can line all the walls with the sheets and pack behind them with insulation, then insulate the ceiling and use plasterboard? I know if there is an air gap below the roof sheets i will get condensation in there so the insulation needs to be packed in tight to that, so i should be ok if i add air holes in the walls? i wont get a tight seal around the garage door anyway but i'll use some of them draft excluder bristle strips to seal it best i can.

 

[MattF]

You're fighting a losing battle with the sectional garages. They just ain't watertight, no matter what you do with them, unless you physically seal the panel joins outside, somehow, flash all the bargeboard to corrugated joins etc. The fillet you're putting along the bottom can be counter-productive too, to a degree. It stops water running in but also prevents water getting out. I basically built a wooden shed within the concrete one with mine. The floor still suffers though. I used battens with chipboard on there, but it's like an ocean surface due to a combination of weight and the water ingress. It's still better than bare concrete though.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Although I have the insulation it is not packed tight and in reality the insulation won't make the garage warmer, it will only retain heat easier and longer and take a shorter time to warm up, eventually it will cool down to the same temp it would be when unoccupied.

Soundproofing will be better though.

The plasterboard stops the warmer air reaching and condensating on the cold steel sheet surface, steel is always worse for this, wood, plasterboard etc does not give the same problems.

 

[DuffyBB]

A couple of mates are joiners and when i was looking into roofing for my sectional garage they said dripping/condensation would be a problem. Managed to get new sheets of agri-steel from ebay at a good price. They came with an anti-drip coating on the inside. Works quite well actually.

Linky
another linky

 

[Park_monkey]

I just need to make a decision, on the one hand i already have the coated metal sheets but i think ply would be better due to condensation.
Although the sheets aren't ideal I really cant afford to bin them and go and buy enough board to line the garage. Think i'll just have to give them a go, at least sound proofing will be much improved, it will hold heat a little better and the condensation cant be any worse.
I'll be putting the obligatory gas bottle woodburner in so that should make it a bit more comfortable during the colder months.
is there anything i can spray on the panels to reduce condensation? it shouldn't really be too much of a problem on the walls, i'll use plasterboard on the ceiling anyway.

 

[Mick - Ford Focus]

Park_monkey

As Per cumbriasteve, Ventilation, As In Circulation Of Air, Is The Way To Combat "Black Spot" Condensation Mould Being An Issue.

Mick

 

[cumbriasteve]

You could probably sell the steel sheets for more than new plasterboard sheets would cost you, think I paid £9 a sheet for foil backed 8ft x 4 ft one's

 

[Park_monkey]

They aren't worth alot as they are only lining sheets. They also have adhesive and other marks on them that needs cleaning off.
I'll give them a go and try to ventilate it best I can. Would a little extractor fan be worthwhile?

 

[MG David]

Spray on closed cell foam insulation may be worth a look. It will seal any joints and because it is bonded to the roof sheet it will stop the warm moist air reaching the cold surface.

 

[cumbriasteve]

They aren't worth alot as they are only lining sheets. They also have adhesive and other marks on them that needs cleaning off.
I'll give them a go and try to ventilate it best I can. Would a little extractor fan be worthwhile?

Just try one thing at a time and see what improvement you get.

Although I have cured my dripping roof sheets, if the weather conditions are right or wrong..whichever way you view it, the first hour of work can result in the steel items in the workshop becoming wet to varying degrees, sometimes very little but occasionaly a lot, there was a cold misty damp day a week ago and even my painted block walls ended up wet with condensation, my bandsaw etc were soaked.... thats rare but can happen.

Simply put: you enter the building when it's cold and the contents are cold and any warmth you generate..even breathing will find the cold surfaces and condensate on them.

24/7 heat will cure it but the expense makes it difficult to provide.

A decent sized extractor may work to some degree, removing the moist air.