You could always cheat and foam fill it so it can't move around or even bolt it through from the top using the breather as the anchor....its a bodge but it works
If you've got some sash clamps etc could use a couple of lengths of box or angle clamped across it to stop the skin expanding and rippling. With angle could drill a bunch of holes for access to the clecos/plug welds if you're struggling to tack it from the inside. Kinda like the jubilee clip with holes punched in the band trick for holding bits of tube together for tacking
Ideally you want a bead roller...
to stiffen up largish flat areas. Especially if some of the beads are placed were you want baffles so you're welding directly to the back of the beads. Flanged joints are another way to make things stiffer/easier, obvious on the example above which has a horizontal baffle sandwiched between top & bottom halves as well as vertical (rivetted to the horizontal baffle, welded to the skin). When an external lip isn't needed to mount the tank i usually turn the flange inwards instead; adds a bunch of stiffness, easier to assemble as much of the tank and baffles can be rivetted together to save a load of tacking and welding etc