Fork bolt removal

[Kram]

This is the damper rod bolt in the bottom of my cbr600 forks. The damper is a long assembly and is spinning, so the bolt will not undo. Tried air gun ,and half way though trying to drill. I have wedged the bolt with copper shim and superglue, but its not enough to stop the head spinning, for the 10mm drill needed to break it free. Any ideas?

I dont have any long hollow tube to do down the inside and compressing fork made no difference. Already spent a day on this, it is not going to plan

 

[Pete.]

Whittle a narrow wooden broom stick to a point and hammer that down into the top of the damper. It should give you enough to hold it and use the windy gun on the bolt. Start with re-tightening the bolt first.

 

[Hopefuldave]

Whittle a narrow wooden broom stick to a point and hammer that down into the top of the damper. It should give you enough to hold it and use the windy gun on the bolt. Start with re-tightening the bolt first.

Or Honda special tool for a hundred quid (probably)... Broom handle for me, too!

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[dobbslc]

Yep broom handle too!

 

[Kram]

I dont have any hollow broom handles, fork damper in the way

I will try to make up a press fit tube spanner to go on the bolt head, and contiue drilling it.

 

[dobbslc]

Bloody Honda's!

 

[Gareth_16V]

Is the fork still assembled, or have you taken it to bits? Usually it's easier to undo these bolts with the fork assembled, you might be able to get it undone by putting the spring and top cap back in.

 

[Wany]

Bloody Honda's!

Had One Never Doing Again

 

[Kram]

Tool is done. Great success.

But what is this? At first I thought I had drilled too far but it appears to be a banjo bolt!

I have zero memory of this. I have zero memory of ever seeing or owning a cap head banjo bolt, possibly it is original and was not rounded or replaced last time. It may have been one of my other bikes I replaced with an off the shelf, stainless.

Edit - And it still spins. Note that the spring assemply presses on the body of the damper tube, excerts zero pressure on the retaining bolt, hence compressing had no effect. The damper rod itself does press on the bolt assembly but would probably bend if you tried it. Small circlip removes the bolt assembly. The valve? end looks complicated. This is no problem the er40 chuck will hold the body tight to remove the bolt.

The thread is M10 x 1.25mm, another thing to order.

 

[mike os]

Really needs a tool to hold the internals... sometimes undoing it before you strip the forks is enough

 

[RichardM]

Is that the bottom of the damping tube the screw is in? If you take the compression damping adjuster out can you lock it off through that hole into the holes in the damper tube?

 

[Kram]

I dont think the holes would line up and might damage the part if it did.. its done now.. the tool was perfect. Threadlock was the cause and I will be using it on reassembly. I dont intend to have them apart again!

Some heat and some slide hammering gets them apart. Gets one apart Spent three hours trying on the second fork, it wont move and hands are getting sore. If I get it much hotter the ptfe will be cooked so I'll be ordering a bush kit aswell.

 

[mtt.tr]

Decent impact wrench some times works.

 

[mike os]

This isn't a job that requires any brutality, if it's that tight it needs the right tools, or you run a real risk of needing new parts

 

[mtt.tr]

This isn't a job that requires any brutality, if it's that tight it needs the right tools, or you run a real risk of needing new parts

Impact without holding the inner often it has enough to do them without any fuss.

Probably not recommended but im yet to do any damage