forge bricks

[Shedendman]

Forgive me if this is in the wrong place.
I have enough materials now to build a decent size forge mostly from 3mm plate esp the pan,what i'd like to do is line this pan with fire bricks, i was given one of those old electric storage heaters that i took apart mainly for the bricks inside then relised these are made from concrete based,would these still be able to withstand really high temps like the normal firebricks you get in brazing hearths,i've seen concrette in hot temps before some are common to explode.
Any thoughts?

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Y Yong silicone bricks cut with a disc cutter make useful liners if you can find a builders merchant that sells them individually ...same goes for chimney building block bricks that are pre shaped for the chimney.

 

[astro_al]

I often use bricks and concrete blocks in my forge to help shape the fire for an awkward shape piece. If there is a risk of something going pop, I've never seen it happen...

Al.

 

[brightspark]

I often use bricks and concrete blocks in my forge to help shape the fire for an awkward shape piece. If there is a risk of something going pop, I've never seen it happen...

Al.

i presume u mean soft breeze blocks . as proper concrete blocks explode

 

[astro_al]

I mean the open 'grain' regular type breeze blocks.

Al.

 

[hareng]

Assume you are going to make it for propane rather than coke and bellows?

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

sheffield -refractoriesco.uk sells individual refractory fire bricks ..might be worth a call
I could not find a UK Y Tong supplier but have had them from Travis & Perkins nearly 20 years or so ago .

 

[Andy from Workshopshed]

Those soft light blocks are good for a hearth as they absorb very little heat. You can put a blow torch on it till it's glowing red, take it off and in a second or so it will be cool enough to touch.

 

[Shedendman]

Assume you are going to make it for propane rather than coke and bellows?

That was the main idea yes coke and air
Well after doing some homework i've found out that these bricks are made from refactory concrete and tested up to 1100C so they say BUT
saying this i got some info from another site saying they're not ideal for forges mainly because they absorb heat as much as reflect it,so it may not be the ideal thing afterall
Damn,nearly broke my back lifting that heater in the van

 

[pedrobedro]

Look for potters suppliers in your area as the same materials are used to line kilns for firing pots. You can get it in the form of a mortar which you shape to whatever you are lining then heat it gently to dry it out before using in earnest.

 

[wyn]

If you are looking to insulate the steel from the heat refractory bricks are great but tend to be a bit brittle.
Fire bricks seem to be more hard wearing but take a while to heat up.
If you are just looking to protect the steel something like a ceramic coating could be used...don't know how it would stand up to abuse though.

 

[hareng]

Considering you are using coke with probably a plumbed in compressor, almost same as bellows.
Line the outside as normal placing bricks along the two main sides 90 degree to air inlet through a thick steel plate low down. Even if the bricks absorb, it wont matter because you will never get the fire alight right up to the bricks!
Fire cement wont last long. Use the soot as well to hold the heat in plus easier to light next time, first couple of times will be hard though.

Reminds me got a piccy about 9 years ago some where.

 

[hareng]

Quicker than i thought i would find.
Back and front is lined but covered over with coke, where warped steel 3/8" plate is plus 1/2" thick behind thats just a hole through at bottom fed from a pipe for the air. Bricks, coke or soot can be placed behind steel plate, no difference. Almost get a white heat borderline Damascus forging.
More height the bigger the spread of the fire.

 

[Shedendman]

Yer i see what you mean there hareng,basically i just wanted to line the base of the pan and retain as much loss heat as poss and to protect the bottom as you see in the photo these are the blocks cut down the middle 4 of these place at the bottom with a channel running down the middle for the air pipe.
Guess best bet would be make the bottom thicker add more 3mm plate,what i'll do is knock my base up and work from there,
cheers chaps

 

[hareng]

Cant comment on the base but its heavy and suspect it is lined with something close to the metal.
If running air pipe under the coal with air escape holes, these will block up or even melt the tube as it would be the hottest there almost white heat.
I can only see the point in doing that if wanting a wide area.

One above is approx 3ft long x 2ft wide x 12" high, air inlet is at bottom of plate on right, even that burns away.
If lighting above its ok for small workable areas with a very hot spot (white heat) area around 7"x7" 800 degrees area approx 10"x9"
Have hardened 5" square x 2" toolposts for lathe.

 

[Dogbreath23]

Those are exactly the same bricks as i have in the bottom of my forge and they work just fine,that and a few bags of sand to fill out the gaps.

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

I googled " Black Smiths supplies " and" Blacksmiths tools " the other night and to the right of the screen were some sponsored links one of whichwas a site that is UK based and sells things like the cast iron water cooled air tube and water tank you'd need for a decent forge ..

 

[hareng]

Took some doing but found it.
http://www.anvils.co.uk/forges.htm

Excuse my ignorance but what use is water cooled when close to or in the actual fire?
Standard gas pipe or smaller thick walled tube works well, cheap and easily replaced when burns away, same problem with above will burn away close on 900 degrees!
Or is it for a cuppa in 2 secs.

 

[astro_al]

The tank is called a 'bosh' and the double walled air tube with a water jacket around the inner tube is called a 'tuyere' or 'tue iron'.

Water cooled tubes obviously last longer with no maintenance.

Al.