- Thread starter CLIFFY
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Drains
Yeah, nah.
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As Weldequip says, they're flameproof (oops - retardent, I meant). The Pioner Arcmaster range are good, thick flameproofed cotton, but a big hot snotter will still make a hole...
If you mean, are they better than non flameproof overalls, you could always put on a nice set of polyester ovies and going for an overhead bead, and let us know how you fare.
If in doubt, get the chrome leather on!
If you mean, are they better than non flameproof overalls, you could always put on a nice set of polyester ovies and going for an overhead bead, and let us know how you fare.
If in doubt, get the chrome leather on!
Last edited:
I always wore Pioneer Arcmaster ovies, as Si mentioned, one big hot snot and, you still end up doing the rain dance, with a few choice words to boot!! Lets not forget the wearing of a good ol bandanna, kromer hinging oot rear pocket, nearly forgot, ovies tucked into rigger boots too :-)
Highway_Star
Member
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- 303
Spatter won't come through Probans, however that rolling lump of hot molten weld might, and it usually lands in someplace umentionable. Personally I wear Dickies Probans, with cotton shirt and trousers underneath. If I'm welding above my head I stick on an anti flash hood which helps stop the bits running down your collar. My trusty Kromer and a pair of well worn daisy roots.
One other thing to consider about all flameproof/retardant overalls is that when they are saturated with oil, grease, brake fluid, petrol etc, they are most definitely NOT flame retardant.
I wash mine at the rated 60ºC, DO NOT TUMBLE DRY. I don't know why but it says that on care label in big letter.
One other thing to consider about all flameproof/retardant overalls is that when they are saturated with oil, grease, brake fluid, petrol etc, they are most definitely NOT flame retardant.
I wash mine at the rated 60ºC, DO NOT TUMBLE DRY. I don't know why but it says that on care label in big letter.
gavuk
artful-bodger
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We have to wear hi-viz proban (orange /reflective stripes)like railway workers but when cutting and welding,then chromed leather jackets ,gauntlets,etc ....no fun in this weather ,and our place has banned riggers(no ankle support,difficult to remove by paramedics)
.so its lace ups and spats now.hard hats ,specs at all times ,and have to have sleeves rolled down even when not welding,guess they're worried about being sued ,nightmare............
.so its lace ups and spats now.hard hats ,specs at all times ,and have to have sleeves rolled down even when not welding,guess they're worried about being sued ,nightmare............
Paul.
Moderator
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No, thats not me, I'm taking the photo, Mind you when i think back, working there was a bit like being in jail,
zardoz
Old school Socialist
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The Lidl (or was it Aldi ?) offer, a few weeks back of leather gauntlets and a leather apron for £9.99 was ok. The apron was not exactly top of the rabge, but certainly it would be a lot better at catching hot weld chunks and not burning through. They still had a few last weekend when i was there.
It was Aldi, but sometimes Netto have aprons in.
welding clothes
hello forum,
I was reading about your different experiences of welding clothes.
I work for a company that manufactures this type of clothing among others and the below might be of use.
proban is a only a treatment that officially will last 50 washes but this depends entirely on whether the articles is correctly washed ironed and dryed.
If washed or ironed at too high a temperature this treatment will degrade very quickly. Proban is nearly always used with 100% cotton and occasionally with cotton/polyester. My advice is to stay away from polyester even if flame retardant as it will melt and stick to your skin. Another treatment called pyrovatex is very similar and perhaps marginally superior to Proban but thats a matter of opinion. 300-360 grammes per m2 is the standard fabric weight.
The articles should be certified to EN 531 heat & flame (now known as ISO 11612) and EN 470-1 welding (now known as 11611)
The EN 531 (11612) standard has 6 different tests and each has a grade - the higher the number the better the protection
A - limited flame spread a1 or a2
B - convective heat b1 b2 or b3
C - radiant heat c1,c2, c3 or c4
D - molten aluminium splash d1,d2d,d3
E - molten iron splash e1 e2 e3
F - contact heat f1 f2 f3
most if not all single layer articles will be a1 or a2 and b1 and c1 e1 and f1
which is fairly standard for proban and even nomex fabrics.
Other fabrics made from permanently flame retardant fabrics such as FR viscose, modacrylic, kermel wool etc often have a higher rating for aluminium and iron splash such as d2 and e3. This is the level required by the big foundrys such as corus etc. Instead of the splashes sticking but not penetrating the molten metals run off the fabric. check out this video to see an example
http://www.marinatextil.net/espanol/marlan.shtml click on the video of Marlan 365 to see what I mean.
There are other alternatives of permanently flame retardant fabrics which will will not lose their flame retardant properties no matter how much they are washed or abused but following the care instructions is of course recommended. The article need only be changed when it is damaged or torn but it shouldnt be because it is no longer flame retardant.
always remember that the tests done to certify welding articles are done in laboratories in controlled environments and don't really represent real life dirt grime oil and general hard wear. if someone who puts a welding overall trhough their paces in real life recommends it then thats better than symbols on any label.
hello forum,
I was reading about your different experiences of welding clothes.
I work for a company that manufactures this type of clothing among others and the below might be of use.
proban is a only a treatment that officially will last 50 washes but this depends entirely on whether the articles is correctly washed ironed and dryed.
If washed or ironed at too high a temperature this treatment will degrade very quickly. Proban is nearly always used with 100% cotton and occasionally with cotton/polyester. My advice is to stay away from polyester even if flame retardant as it will melt and stick to your skin. Another treatment called pyrovatex is very similar and perhaps marginally superior to Proban but thats a matter of opinion. 300-360 grammes per m2 is the standard fabric weight.
The articles should be certified to EN 531 heat & flame (now known as ISO 11612) and EN 470-1 welding (now known as 11611)
The EN 531 (11612) standard has 6 different tests and each has a grade - the higher the number the better the protection
A - limited flame spread a1 or a2
B - convective heat b1 b2 or b3
C - radiant heat c1,c2, c3 or c4
D - molten aluminium splash d1,d2d,d3
E - molten iron splash e1 e2 e3
F - contact heat f1 f2 f3
most if not all single layer articles will be a1 or a2 and b1 and c1 e1 and f1
which is fairly standard for proban and even nomex fabrics.
Other fabrics made from permanently flame retardant fabrics such as FR viscose, modacrylic, kermel wool etc often have a higher rating for aluminium and iron splash such as d2 and e3. This is the level required by the big foundrys such as corus etc. Instead of the splashes sticking but not penetrating the molten metals run off the fabric. check out this video to see an example
http://www.marinatextil.net/espanol/marlan.shtml click on the video of Marlan 365 to see what I mean.
There are other alternatives of permanently flame retardant fabrics which will will not lose their flame retardant properties no matter how much they are washed or abused but following the care instructions is of course recommended. The article need only be changed when it is damaged or torn but it shouldnt be because it is no longer flame retardant.
always remember that the tests done to certify welding articles are done in laboratories in controlled environments and don't really represent real life dirt grime oil and general hard wear. if someone who puts a welding overall trhough their paces in real life recommends it then thats better than symbols on any label.
We have to wear hi-viz proban (orange /reflective stripes)like railway workers but when cutting and welding,then chromed leather jackets ,gauntlets,etc ....no fun in this weather ,and our place has banned riggers(no ankle support,difficult to remove by paramedics)
how do you know if they are fire retardent then?
i have my orange overals that i weld in that i got from work and although i assumed they were cotten after a quick check it seems they are 40%polyester 60% cotton! I'm a railway worker hence i thought i would do a quick check to see!
edit. it seems gramar has answered for me!
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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We were issued Nomex overalls at a foundry I was working in years ago as a fettler on arcair. They also gave us pure wool jackets and trousers (very itchy) for general wear as it is naturally flame retardant.
Stuggi
Molten Metal Fanatic
- Messages
- 210
2 - 3 mm thick 100% cotton chippy pants and suitable wool shirt is all I weld in usually, with the added thick leather gauntlets if I fell it's necessary (I'm a blacksmith as well so my hands take radiant heat quite well by now). I should probably get a suitable pair of boots as the ones I use now just an old pair of insulated winter boots that are getting quite a bit worn. Still, they've seen lots of splatter, and even with all the rubber and plastic and crap in them they still haven't caught fire, the splatter just burns straight through them. (I don't wear them laced on so just a small kick in the right direction would send them flying. Safety measure of the year! 
). I also have a leather apron somewhere which is the kind 'em horseshoe fitters like to use, really useful if you have to sit across something you're welding, like a big pipe or girder..
Just a note; I don't do any professional welding at the moment, so this is just for my personal projects. Though I'm looking into landing myself a nice job in some big workshop as most Finnish companies like to kit out their workers with brand new free gear.
). I also have a leather apron somewhere which is the kind 'em horseshoe fitters like to use, really useful if you have to sit across something you're welding, like a big pipe or girder.. Just a note; I don't do any professional welding at the moment, so this is just for my personal projects.
Though I'm looking into landing myself a nice job in some big workshop as most Finnish companies like to kit out their workers with brand new free gear. 