first TIG tube welds.

[Aesgarth]

What the title says... I'm making a bracket to hold a projector, these are going to be part of it.
View media item 8355View media item 8354This is my first attempt at both fitting up tube and then welding the joints. Any thoughts or pointers greatly appreciated.

 

[langy]

Good 1st attempt I would say, pic quite small but arc length looks a bit long and a bit to hot, good basis to improve on though

 

[norlander]

fit up looks not too bad, you probably found, like me, TIG does not like gaps,but I learned to fill holes as I learned that.
What I would like to know when one of the experienced lads comes along to comment, is, has there been too much heat, I ask that because some of my early welds were that dark colour and some still are a bit.
If so, I put it down to me being slow?
but anyway, looks like you got the job done and I think it should be good for the application in mind.
Good going for what looks like a 26 torch?

 

[Aesgarth]

It is indeed a 26 torch on an R-tech tig251 ac/dc. Tube is 27mm OD, 3mm wall. Set at 93A and 7lpm argon flow. Possibly was a bit too hot and arc length definitely was a bit long in places cause i was struggling with the angles. Couple more pictures....

 

[norlander]

Rockin, you know where the minor probs are, you will flare the arc on jobs like that with a switched 26, keep the beads short and turn the job and move position to do the next bead, that gives the job time to cool down a bit as well.Gas flow can play tricks on fillet type joints,have to juggle stick out with flow rate.
Actually, that sounds like I know what I am talkin about-but I don't so I'm gettin me coat, wait till a real welder comes along, I reckon I only have limited TIG experience , but for me, good first attempt.

 

[Kent]

I doubt they will be breaking any time soon!

 

[Rrunnach]

What diameter filler wire you using?

 

[Aesgarth]

What diameter filler wire you using?

1.6mm

 

[Rrunnach]

1.6mm

From images, I would suggest you take it easy on amount of filler you deposit into weld pool. Welds look a tad convex. Apart from the latter, decent effort.

 

[Boss]

Slightly off topic but if your using a tube not her to notch the ends, don't go so hard. When you push too hard with the drill the rotation of the cutter twists the notcher frame up (and finds any play in bearings)and you get a slightly offset cut. Similar to that in your pics, I found that out the hard way. If that's not the case.... Ignore me

 

[Richard.]

It is a decent effort and as said don't be too shy with the filler. 1.6 is perfect for that. You'll get good fill into the pool without chilling it at that size. Spend some time dry running those (motion without blue light). You'll be surprised at just how much skilled wrist movement is needed to keep the correct torch angle and tight arc length. If you get those two things sorted the welding will be improved massively. I think you've done a nice job. Keep up the practice.

 

[Aesgarth]

Slightly off topic but if your using a tube not her to notch the ends, don't go so hard. When you push too hard with the drill the rotation of the cutter twists the notcher frame up (and finds any play in bearings)and you get a slightly offset cut. Similar to that in your pics, I found that out the hard way. If that's not the case.... Ignore me

I don't have a tubing notcher but your tip may still apply - i cut the notches using a holesaw in a pillar drill and i was wondering how to get it to stay centered.

 

[langy]

I don't have a tubing notcher but your tip may still apply - i cut the notches using a holesaw in a pillar drill and i was wondering how to get it to stay centered.

You will find a proper tube notcher much better, there a cheap nasty ones to avoid though.

 

[Leetig]

Beware if you are buying a nother don't be tempted to go for a cheapie off ebay. I also agree with Richard on doing lots of dry runs to get muscle memory in wrist. The only way to get the nice tig look is with correct arc length and torch angle.

 

[Paul.]

I don't have a tubing notcher but your tip may still apply - i cut the notches using a holesaw in a pillar drill and i was wondering how to get it to stay centered.

You are probably already doing this, but when cutting notches with a hole saw, cut your material oversize and make a full cut to keep the notch true, a decent vice and clamping everything down nice and solid makes all the difference too.
Take a look at this thread for how I do It, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-make-a-handrail.22424/

 

[Boss]

With a notcher you get what you pay for. Mine is a baileigh TN-76H which is pretty much the same as a JD2 notch master and even with that I get offset cuts if I put too much pressure on the saw. The best are the mills or the belt sanders but it's at a cost

Avoid eBay ones at all costs!

Sorry, it's the only pic I have