First TIG in anger:

[MattH]

I'm making a new draw tube and handle for a 5C collet closer to fit my Cardiff lathe.
The tube is made up of three sections, a length of pipe that is threaded at the end to accept the collet, an end piece that the pipe is welded into that acts as a spacer/bush in the end of the headstock bore and allows mounting of the third piece which is a heavy steel hand wheel that will have slots milled in to enable the use of the headstock C spanner.

I have welded the pipe inside the turned tube and then welded the handle onto the turned tube. I created a weld prep on both sides of the wheel and tube and then welded. Pics show it mounted in the lathe ready to turn the weld beads down.
Not the prettiest but solid.
I struggle because I don't have a foot pedal so I find holding the touch and button down awkward.

 

[HughF]

stick it in 4t mode (if you have it) then you get control over upslope, downslope and you don't have to hold the button down

 

[MattH]

It does have 4t but no upslope only downslope.

 

[eSCHEn]

Yeah as Hugh says, 4T will help. Noods was asking similar the other day and got a good response fromMr F: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/alternatives-to-esab-tig-torch-switchp.56836/#post-683759

 

[MattH]

Some good info there eSCHEn. I have been keeping an eye on an ultra cheap Chinese pedal to possibly modify. As said even if I just use it for remote start stop that would be better.

 

[eSCHEn]

I'll qualify this by saying I am most definitely not a machinist.

Did / can you spin the job on the lathe or does it not go slow enough? That's be a nice comfortable way to do the bead if you had to do it again.

Looks like it will hold,which is frankly the best I can get so well done

 

[Chris Stevens]

Some good info there eSCHEn. I have been keeping an eye on an ultra cheap Chinese pedal to possibly modify. As said even if I just use it for remote start stop that would be better.

Try SMP in Stourport for footpedal.................they can often provide for about £150.

 

[Maker]

Did / can you spin the job on the lathe or does it not go slow enough? That's be a nice comfortable way to do the bead if you had to do it again.

I've tried this with my lathe in the low gear and the VFD on 5Hz and it was far too fast..

 

[MattH]

As Maker said, far to fast. Slowest my lathe goes is 126RPM.

My machine is an old old British transformer based machine so I can't see any hope of getting a foot pedal off the shelf. I am looking at £40 cheepies that I can hack.

 

[eSCHEn]

My last unit was the DC only version of yours. I did look into a pedal and came to the same conclusion as you - make own. A simple on off pedal would be very easy and I'm not sure there was any great load through it. I was going to grab a cheap sewing machine pedal from ebay and use that but I have a different machine now.

 

[Maker]

My machine is an old old British transformer based machine so I can't see any hope of getting a foot pedal off the shelf. I am looking at £40 cheepies that I can hack.

What is the machine? I'm sure there's someone else on here with one who's made or found a pedal.

 

[MattH]

Here's a few pics of the part after finishing in the lathe. Just need to mill the spanner slots now (a few low spots but nothing that bothers me):

 

[MattH]

What is the machine? I'm sure there's someone else on here with one who's made or found a pedal.

Not a chance, eSCHEn's is the only other one I've ever seen and that's was a different model. It's no problem modding a pedal, its just a case of getting around to it.

 

[eSCHEn]

Not a chance, eSCHEn's is the only other one I've ever seen and that's was a different model. It's no problem modding a pedal, its just a case of getting around to it.

I've seen precisely three machines by this manufacturer. Yours, mine (now Steve's) and a MIG unit of a member on here. There's pictures on here of all the machines.

That wheel looks great pal but you not tempted to pop a few dots in those low spots and resurface? Wouldn't take two mins as the steel's lovely and clean and the welder's already out...

 

[MattH]

Finished milling the slots out. Works great with the chuck C spanner.
Now I'm turning down a 5" x 4" lump of bar to make a Nose taper protector! Fun fun.

And eSCHEn, no I'm not OCD about these things. As long as it works and looks 90% ;-)

 

[Maker]

Very nice, though I agree with eSCHEn about filling in the low spots.

 

[Richard.]

Get the holes filled in
My sleep will be disturbed just knowing that is unfinished.