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pedrobedro
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Could be the grade of aluminium and the rods used. I had some unknown stuff ages ago that always looked like that when I used 4043 rods
MattH
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What was your balance set to? I was having a play around a moment ago and forgot that I had increased the cleaning to ball up a fresh grind. Went to do a fillet and destroyed the end of the Tungsten.
Note to self, reset AC balance after prepping Tungsten!
Note to self, reset AC balance after prepping Tungsten!
Richard.
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Common problem some people have with this filler rod producing a grainy run.
Lots of reasons widely spread as to why. Heat input been one of them. When they are run hot and particularly slow this clumping can happen. Another which has been bought up in the past is the type of wave form used also. It's been said that a harsh square wave can elaborate it although it's something I'm yet to experience myself given that's the wave I use most. Despite there grainy appearance they are very tidy runs for your first go.
MattH
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I increase the AC balance for more cleaning action when prepping a Tungsten and then turn it back down for normal welding.
Tonight I forgot and left it turned up (more positive??) and it caused the Tungsten to burn back and ball when attempting a fillet.
Only mention it because you said your Tungsten was burning up.
Tonight I forgot and left it turned up (more positive??) and it caused the Tungsten to burn back and ball when attempting a fillet.
Only mention it because you said your Tungsten was burning up.
Richard.
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50% is a balanced wave and will cause the tungsten to melt quick with most current levels.
Set it at 70% dcen or 30% DCEP depending on which way your unit sets up.
Richard.
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Of course I'll try.
Depends on how familiar your panel is but either way I can give you some common ones I use regular.
A good tip is to store your filler in a warm place. This time of year it's ok but in winter they can suck moisture in from the air which makes em useless. My Alu lives in the back of the airing cupboard.
Depends on how familiar your panel is but either way I can give you some common ones I use regular.
A good tip is to store your filler in a warm place. This time of year it's ok but in winter they can suck moisture in from the air which makes em useless. My Alu lives in the back of the airing cupboard.
Ali
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Does that mean when they've taken in moisture they're knackered forever? Or can they be dried out?
HughF
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It's always happened to me when using 4043, at all the jobs I've worked and at he home shop. I nearly always weld either grotty castings (4043) or fresh new clean stock (5356)... I think I have 2-3 times the volume of 5356 rods in stock compared to 4043.
Brad93
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I'm sure @TechnicAl will be able to explain. I've had it happen with 4043 and 5356. Its notably worse the cleaner the meal is, the more amperage used and the higher frequency you use.
I've had it happen on 5xxx series and 6xxxx series base metals too.
Picked up ESAB 4043 the other day and no problems. Going back to get some 2.4 in 4043 and 5356 today now I know it's okay.
I've had it happen on 5xxx series and 6xxxx series base metals too.
Picked up ESAB 4043 the other day and no problems. Going back to get some 2.4 in 4043 and 5356 today now I know it's okay.
Sorry I dont know....4053 SHOULD flow better than 5356. The Silicon in Aluminium has a similar effect to adding fairy liquid to water......it "wets" better.
This is why most castings have Silicon....its so the metal flows to the extremes
There is a test. A mould is made using a spiral and they cast the metal and see how far down the spiral it goes....the silicon grades will go further down than the Mg grades
If my memory serves me well the higher the Silicon the better the flow up to about 12% when it becomes a Eutectic which freezes instantly so theres no flow at all.
You need @hotrodder .......he will know better than I do
This is why most castings have Silicon....its so the metal flows to the extremes
There is a test. A mould is made using a spiral and they cast the metal and see how far down the spiral it goes....the silicon grades will go further down than the Mg grades
If my memory serves me well the higher the Silicon the better the flow up to about 12% when it becomes a Eutectic which freezes instantly so theres no flow at all.
You need @hotrodder .......he will know better than I do
Richard.
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Here is an old thread that illustrates this problem perfectly.
Hotrodder has some very good input here that helps the op get it sorted.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/surface-of-ally-weld.24510/#post-267950
Hotrodder has some very good input here that helps the op get it sorted.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/surface-of-ally-weld.24510/#post-267950
Pretty much all been said... the grainyness/roughness is from the silicon in 4043, brand/quality of wire seems to make a difference but it's mostly due to things too hot and for some reason inverters seem to have a finer line to walk to avoid grainyness with 4043, at least on thinner stuff
Obviously it's better to avoid in the first place and ally wire cost peanuts anyway but for practice/non critical stuff cleaning up wire that's been kicking around in a damp shed or whatever is fine. For anyone that's welding much magnesium cleaning up oxidised wire is pretty much par for the course even when it's kept somewhere dry with fairly constant humidty
For those that religously wire brush and degrease everything they're gonna weld 'cos the internet said to it's also kinda pointless to go to those lengths and then skip cleaning the filler wire...
ETA, pics a bit blurry but looks like the tungsten is oxidising due to to not enough post flow time (generalising, more is needed with more stickout) or even too much stickout for the cup size & flow rate
Aluminium filler wire (or sheet etc) isn't porous. Aluminium oxide is. If filler wire is stored in a way that results in it ending up dull/white/furry due to oxidation it can be cleaned up with scotchbrite/stainless wool/stainless pan scourers etc followed by a solvent wipe
Obviously it's better to avoid in the first place and ally wire cost peanuts anyway but for practice/non critical stuff cleaning up wire that's been kicking around in a damp shed or whatever is fine. For anyone that's welding much magnesium cleaning up oxidised wire is pretty much par for the course even when it's kept somewhere dry with fairly constant humidty
For those that religously wire brush and degrease everything they're gonna weld 'cos the internet said to it's also kinda pointless to go to those lengths and then skip cleaning the filler wire...
ETA, pics a bit blurry but looks like the tungsten is oxidising due to to not enough post flow time (generalising, more is needed with more stickout) or even too much stickout for the cup size & flow rate
