First fire up of new stove

[Bryan Williams]

Made a bigger shed stove, it's drawing fine and throwing a fair bit of heat out, just wondering If it's worth putting a baffle plate in and a secondary air tube in it as well.
It's not that big -22" tall.
Also how much space around the flue should I give,im thinking the hole in the shed is a tad small,that flue is hot..

 

[gaz1]

minimum clearance is 300mm away from wall
f o r around flue just insulate from the heat to outside

 

[pressbrake1]

And flue length 4m

 

[gaz1]

flue nope minimum to be 600mm above the highest point of the build in this case shed

 

[pressbrake1]

flue nope minimum to be 600mm above the highest point of the build in this case shed

Thats what my local building control said to me today( I actually did have them here today) , to do with fume tempatures.

I said roof clearance, but they were adamant about min flue length.

 

[gaz1]

General Guidance on the selection and installation of flues and chimneys for wood burning and multi fuel appliances in residenti - Hetas
PDFhttps://www.hetas.co.uk › mediauploads

building control and fire instalations iin houses is one thing for sheds its another
just a way to block you having any type of heating other than elactric or calor gas

 

[Rig Pig]

If you are burning wood then a baffle and top air feed will make it burn better & longer, adding a damper in the flue will give you a bit of control over burn time / heat output.
I'd be tempted to insulate and double skin the flue. Also flue gasses and condensate are acidic so stainless is the normal choice for the flue pipe so keep an eye on the condition of it.

 

[MattF]

What're the dimensions of your stove?

I've considered trying to make one for the shed, from some 4", (approx.), tube/pipe. Electric fan heater which I use currently is less hassle, but they don't warm a space like a stove does.

 

[julianf]

General Guidance on the selection and installation of flues and chimneys for wood burning and multi fuel appliances in residenti - Hetas
PDFhttps://www.hetas.co.uk › mediauploads

building control and fire instalations iin houses is one thing for sheds its another
just a way to block you having any type of heating other than elactric or calor gas

Hetas stuff is, for some reason, slightly different from BC.

As mentioned, for a shed, it will only be guidance anyway, but for a home, you would need to follow doc J for BC, or let hetas take care of it.

A friend had a hetas chap install his stove, but then wouldnt sign it off (!) as it did not meet hetas rules. He was pretty miffed, as is understandable. BC chap had no issue though.
Most hetas installers (so far as ive found) are not keen on signing off other peoples works - again, not relevant to this thread though.

I seem to recall, without looking, that for single wall flue, its somthing like 3.5x the diameter as clearance, but, again, its in doc J, if you want to use that as guidence.

 

[waddycall]

Signing it off will be irrelevant as it’s not ce marked.

 

[the artfull-codger]

I see you've got a flat top, I've built a couple of stoves one rocket & 1 pot belly type & they both kick out heat but if you want loads more heat out of it I put a small centrifugal snail fan & made a skirt to cover the top & about 1/2" clearance all round so it can suck in air over the top of the stove & it's just like an electric fan heater, you can't bear your hand in front of it, boy does it heat the workshop,hard to explain,I'll try & post a photo. you'll not regret making one.

 

[Bryan Williams]

What're the dimensions of your stove?

I've considered trying to make one for the shed, from some 4", (approx.), tube/pipe. Electric fan heater which I use currently is less hassle, but they don't warm a space like a stove does.

Its about 56cm tall and about 150x150mm,its two chunks of channel welded up, I had about 8 charcoal briquettes and some lump wood on top and it was so hot I ended up putting a couple of sheets of steel either side to protect stuff.Going to have to think about this a bit.
Sheds only 10'x8'.

 

[sardine]

You have the air feeding under the grate / ash bed, but for burning wood you need the air entering above the fuel , and maintaining a deep hot ash bed.

Coal draws its air from under the grate, wood from above it.

 

[fixerupper]

Yeah ,dampers are very useful ......a grate is not needed for wood burning ..but handy for ash removal if you are burning 24/7 in the middle of winter ....

 

[sardine]

If restricting the air going in doesn't damp the fire then you have air leaks in the stove, if you use a damper to try to solve that you are backing up the carbon monoxide that will try to exit through the leaks into the room ?

 

[Bryan Williams]

If restricting the air going in doesn't damp the fire then you have air leaks in the stove, if you use a damper to try to solve that you are backing up the carbon monoxide that will try to exit through the leaks into the room ?

The flames die back to a smoulder when the air inlet is shut.
Its not an air tight fit as my welding of the nut in the tube wasnt squared up enough ,its a mm squwiff and there's a slitter gap around the ash door , but I think it's breathing okay,not noth is coming back as i put a bigger flue on after getting blowbacks on my first smaller stove which only had a 40mm box section flue,i read in the stove comments here that companies are moving away from dampers and that they are a pain to clean anyway, I am going to support a baffle plate on bolts though and I thought of routing a 15mm copper pipe in through the bottom back, up the back wall and elbowing it along the bottom of the baffle, capped and drilled with 5mm holes ,see if I can light up the gases.
I tried some wood today it roared away with the inlet open, the inlet is right inline with the fire (the grate is just under the bottom edge of the inlet) and with it fully shut it settled right down.
The wood didn't last long tho.
I cut a bigger hole in the shed ,theres about 5 inches gap all round the flue and I fixed floor tile to the edge of the wood.
Blanked the hole off with some thin galv sheet with a hole snug round the flue.

 

[sardine]

Copper tube will melt.

 

[Bryan Williams]

Copper tube will melt.

Ok, wasn't sure, thought that solder would so was just going to tight fit the joints with a tap from a centre pop.

 

[sardine]

Don't know why you have a long pipe for the air inlet, you don't need it.

 

[Bryan Williams]

Don't know why you have a long pipe for the air inlet, you don't need it.

Aesthetics.