Ensuite refurb problems

[keithski122]

I'm just aabout to redo our loft conversion ensuite as its looking a bit tired now but by removing the tiles it will destroy the plasterboard.The problem I'm having is that it is impossible to find a plasterer at the moment.The board I can probably replace myself but it will need skimming to bring level with the existing board.Now I'll have a go at most things but plastering is one thing I will never attempt again. I've measured the thickness of the skimmed board and it measures 14mm, now with plasterboard at 12.5mm how much of a bodge would it be to use 1.5mm wood between the plasterboard and studs then smooth the joint with filler.Most of the board will be covered by new tiles apart from maybe two inches around the edges where I won't take the tiles as far as they were previously. Any other suggestions.

 

[barracuda816]

If you are tiling could you not just make up the difference with the adhesive?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Go thicker on plasterboard.
Or use ply on the stud's.

Or scrape walls and tiles to build up a few mm.

 

[Kayos]

No need to plaster, try hardy backer board over the plasterboard

 

[keithski122]

I can't seem to find any board 14 or 14.5 mm thick.Big tiles (600x300) so don't really want to mess about trying to get adhesive thicker then trying to level them.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I can't seem to find any board 14 or 14.5 mm thick.Big tiles (600x300) so don't really want to mess about trying to get adhesive thicker then trying to level them.

5.5mm ply cut into strips. Tack onto studs then plasterboard with 9mm

Tile. Then feather in with easyfill

 

[AVI_8]

Take off the tiles, use an oscillating tool to cut out the damaged board to a horizontal level then replace the board that you’ve removed with new pasterboard. Put up your new tiles so that they go above the join from the new plasterboard, the join will be behind the tiles, the tile adhesive will more than compensate for the 1.5 MM difference in thickness and will be hidden behind the tiles.
Run the oscillating tool around the plasterboard at the top of the tiles before tile removal prior to removing the tiles, that’ll keep the plasterboard above the tiles undamaged. New tiles finish just above the join.

 

[brightspark]

5.5mm ply cut into strips. Tack onto studs then plasterboard with 9mm

Tile. Then feather in with easyfill

same here simple and job done. seal the wall with sbr bonding agent 1st before tiling

 

[Agroshield]

5.5mm ply cut into strips. Tack onto studs then plasterboard with 9mm

Plasterboard is 9.5mm (3/8"). 9.5 + 5.5 = 15. He needs 14 so will now have a 1mm step the other way.

Buy a 2 x 4 and rip strips off it the correct thickness to make the spacers. Buy some 1/2" square beading and plane it down to thickness. Two per stud held on with pins with the plasterboard screw in the middle between them.

 

[brightspark]

1.0mm is neither here or there the existing walls wont be that accurate

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Plasterboard is 9.5mm (3/8"). 9.5 + 5.5 = 15. He needs 14 so will now have a 1mm step the other way.

Buy a 2 x 4 and rip strips off it the correct thickness to make the spacers. Buy some 1/2" square beading and plane it down to thickness. Two per stud held on with pins with the plasterboard screw in the middle between them.

I wouldn't bother anyway. I'd shove 12.5mm up and bed the tiles thick.

Il be doing just that on a bathroom next week.

Only gotta skim up the final bit where the tiles don't cover

 

[AVI_8]

Plasterboard is 9.5mm (3/8"). 9.5 + 5.5 = 15. He needs 14 so will now have a 1mm step the other way.

Buy a 2 x 4 and rip strips off it the correct thickness to make the spacers. Buy some 1/2" square beading and plane it down to thickness. Two per stud held on with pins with the plasterboard screw in the middle between them.

9.5 is usually for ceilings, 12.5 for walls, butt up new 12.5 to the original 14mm skimmed board and tile to just above the join.
Job done, no skimming needed, the 1.5mm step hidden behind the tiles.

 

[tlovatt]

Take the tiles off and use an oscilating toll to remove the old adhesive, you get special blades for it which are great, then there is no need to replace the plasterboard, you may have to sand the 2" that will be above the tiles to get it smooth before painting

 

[brightspark]

Take the tiles off and use an oscilating toll to remove the old adhesive, you get special blades for it which are great, then there is no need to replace the plasterboard, you may have to sand the 2" that will be above the tiles to get it smooth before painting

take the tiles off who you kidding. if there on proper half the wall comes with them 90 percent of the time

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

take the tiles off who you kidding. if there on proper half the wall comes with them 90 percent of the time

Lucky on this one. Got them all off pretty clean. Couple of holes to fill.

Bath wall was replaced. Big holes in it under the bath.

Pecking with a breaker near flush to the wall seems to do it. Rather than going in one spot hard.

 

[keithski122]

Some great answers on here.Thanks all.
It seems my idea of packing the plasterboard off the studs is less of a bodge than I thought. I think can get 1.5mm ply which should be ideal with the 12.5mm plasterboard.

 

[Parm]

take the tiles off who you kidding. if there on proper half the wall comes with them 90 percent of the time

There is academic knowledge, then we have experience.........

 

[brightspark]

if they have been put on properly and the wall primed 1st they will not come off easily . just stuck on to bare plaster you can just shovel them off

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

if they have been put on properly and the wall primed 1st they will not come off easily . just stuck on to bare plaster you can just shovel them off

Umm. I was pulling the plaster off the drywall. Could see paper in a lot of places.

 

[keithski122]

I put them on, they wouldn't have been primed however they are pulling the skim coat, the paper or the board off.If not its leaving the adhesive on.With the time taken to repair the mess that will be left it will be so much easier to replace the board apart from the fact I cannot plater to save my life.