Drylining/plasterboarding questions

[bigegg]

In my neverending quest to build a laundry room/covered wahing line/ "conservatory"
I have reached the point where i want to dryline the walls with insulated plasterboard.
The conservatory is roughly octagonal with each section 4ft in length, and 2ft high.
The walls are single skin brick, no dampcourse, and painted (internally) with a couple of coats of toolstation's finest bitumen paint.
I have some sheets of insulated plasterboard i pulled from a skip (approx 40mm of kingspan type foam, 12mm of plasterboard)
Should i space the board off the wall with a 2" tanalised wooden frame?
If so, should the timber run vertically? Horizontally? In a grid?

Adhesives?
Im thinking pinkgrip/construction adhesive to fasten to the brickwork, then screw the plasterboard to the timber.

Or... the same stuff to dot and dab straight to the wall?

Eventually, im intending to woodpanel the walls over the plasterboard - i'm using it because it's here, it was free, and i want *some* insulation.

Additional info:
Its very well sheltered (no driving rain) and well above (12") ground level.
The floor is dampproofed, and the bitumen paint tanks the floor as well (under the polystyrene insulated screeded floor)

 

[Omniata]

If you can, cut out the insulation from the back to put a "grid" in the back of the sheets, glue and screw, then screw through the plasterboard/timber with frame anchors.
Have seen this done previously with the insulation glued tight to the wall as well and it works wonders...
If you leave a gap there's the severe likelihood that you'll get condensation with any gap as it's only single skin brickwork...

 

[bigegg]

Im worried about bridging the tanking if i screw into the external wall.

But if gluing the plasterboard directly to the wall is acceptable, then thats what i'll do.

 

[Omniata]

Fair point...
The kingspan insulation tends to be a lot more tolerant of adhesive than polystyrene... The pink grip stuff should be fine, maybe trowel it on to be sure?

I'm assuming the external wall isn't tanked, if there's no free air movement for it to breathe then it may hold water, which is worse than the damp penetrating as there'll be an increased risk of frost fracture to the bricks and mortar.

 

[bigegg]

I only tanked the inside - i read up on tanking before starting.
(after i finished the wall and noticed the roll of dpm i was supposed to use )

Long term, im going to use some injectable dpm if neccessary.

 

[Omniata]

Ok, sounds good...
I was doing something similar in an old house with solid 9" walls several years ago and used a "cream based" product that you inject into the mortar at all the T joints across 3 courses.
Is dissolves into the mortar and makes it water proof generating an "insitu" damp proof course.
8 years later and the walls are still "dry as a bone".

If your wall is only single brick thick you can probably use it by only drilling half way, but I'd check with the manufacturer first in case there won't be enough depth to hold the cream before plugging, plug removal and cementing over at a later date.

One example of the stuff I used is supplied by this company: https://www.permagard.co.uk/damp-proofing/cream

 

[the snooper]

You may need to read up on adhesive there are loads that don't work with bituminous materials

 

[gaz1]

that wall wont be dry if you wood it behind the boards you will need to air behind there because you have got the insulation type of board name should be on your board if you look it up you should be able to just stick them to the wall id probably use the pink gripfill stuff or something better

 

[brightspark]

its nothings going to stick to bitumastic paint now its been painted on the wall

 

[brightspark]

Im worried about bridging the tanking if i screw into the external wall.

But if gluing the plasterboard directly to the wall is acceptable, then thats what i'll do.

no problem drilling and screwing in wall using plastic plugs .just gun some silicone in and a bit round the hole and screw the lats on

 

[bigegg]

should have just stuck the insulated board to the liquid dpm bitumen when its wet...the stuff is like glue, tin even says it can be used to bond down wooden floortiles

Nowt to stop me putting another coat on it