Drilling two 1" holes in brick work

[winchman]

Hoping to fit a Chinese diesel heater in the new garage
I will need to drill a hole for the exhaust and one for the air inlet
The Brick work is quite tough but only one course thick so I don't want to just bash through with a Big SDS drill so thought about a core drill?
Any advice welcome

 

[brightspark]

yep cheap enough a 25mm diamond core drill with a pilot arbour

 

[angellonewolf]

core drill will do it slow speed no hammer hold tight keep it straight not go on an angle once you start drilling or it catches and trys to rip your arm off

and when your near the the other saide of the brick slow more and dont lean in to it or you get breakout if you do it right should get a near good round hole

 

[Erie Fred]

You could try sandblasting, make a stencil/mask by cutting a hole in a piece
of thin steel.

 

[Pete.]

Cheapo 25mm SDS drill you'll be through in no time. drill from the outside if you don't want an ugly break-out.

 

[winchman]

Cheapo 25mm SDS drill you'll be through in no time. drill from the outside if you don't want an ugly break-out.

Its near the top of a single skin wall so I don't want to hammer it with an SDS

 

[Hitch]

Pilot through, get someone to hold a bit of wood tight against the wall to help reduce and break out and go from each side.

 

[Kayos]

Id have gone through with the SDS quicker than making this post took

Bit of care and it will be neat enough

 

[Gragson]

core drill will do it slow speed no hammer hold tight keep it straight not go on an angle once you start drilling or it catches and trys to rip your arm off

and when your near the the other saide of the brick slow more and dont lean in to it or you get breakout if you do it right should get a near good round hole

I did this, go slow, no hammer, I went oversize 30mm and nibbled 5mm in from outer where the pilot broke out, diamond hole saw type bit. If your corrugated pipe is 25mm it will be an ass to get through a 25mm hole, especially if the brick internal has holes which break up, I still got a bit of break up on brick face, stuck a metal plate on the exit just to keep stuff straight and neat.

 

[BrokenBiker]

i usually turn the hammer off on the sds for brick work, seems to work well enough although largest holes ive drilled are 18mm

 

[Onoff]

Did this with a carbide grit edged hole saw:

This sort of thing. Even drilled engineering bricks with them. Spray water as it's cutting and it'll last longer.

Did this 100mm hole:

https://flic.kr/p/2m64ywN

With one of these, again wet:

 

[Wedg1e]

Funily enough i just did the same job; had the heater for almost a year and kept meaning to install it when the weather was warmer and lighter...

Screwfix have a 28mm Erbauer core drill (94375) that can drill to 300mm depth, more than enough for a single skin. Needs a separate arbour (either hex or SDS (8666V) depending on your drill)... I think it was the thick end of 34 quid for the two, but it'll probably have application for future central heating work. I did contemplate a 25mm drill but the exhaust pipe is actually 1" and flimsy so trying to force it through might have crumpled it; I thought a mm or so slack couldn't hurt - bit of lead sheet will fill the gap - and anyway I couldn't find a 25/26mm in stock locally.

Has no pilot and you don't use hammer action, I just hand-held the tube with a TIG glove, on a steepish angle to start the top of the hole and as it chewed its way in dropped it to the required angle (I put a slight downward slope on the hole to help any condensate to drain).
Exhaust silencer pointing downward outside the garage, bit of wire mesh Jubilee-clipped over the outlet to stop wasps from thinking it's their very own Premier Inn. To be fair it probably doesn't need the silencer, it's hemmed in by fences and garages so the neighbours shouldn't hear anything - local traffic noise will be louder anyway.

I did contemplate a second hole for the air intake but I don't think it's a problem to draw the combustion air from the heated space? I'm sure plenty of opinions on that will soon surface : - can't say I've noticed any ill-effects after two or three hours.

Even on full blast the heater doesn't make much of an impression in my uninsulated 30x9 foot garage, but in the immediate area it's warm enough to work without gloves. Mine's the version with four hot air tubes, some just have one large exit. I ran two of the flexis into a couple of offcuts of 3" alu tube; they act like radiators once the air's blown through them for a while... every little helps! I might see if I can arrange a curtain to split the 'workshop' area from the 'garage' bit where the car and bike live.

 

[Morris]

Gentlemen, make sure your SDS drill has a clutch. Mine doesn't it turned out.

 

[Onoff]

Gentlemen, make sure your SDS drill has a clutch. Mine doesn't it turned out.
View attachment 525387

Ouch!

Could have been worse, could have broken your wrist...

 

[fizzy]

Hoping to fit a Chinese diesel heater in the new garage
I will need to drill a hole for the exhaust and one for the air inlet
The Brick work is quite tough but only one course thick so I don't want to just bash through with a Big SDS drill so thought about a core drill?
Any advice welcome

You really dont need an air inlet! Just the exhaust!
So only 1 small hole needed.

 

[fizzy]

Funily enough i just did the same job; had the heater for almost a year and kept meaning to install it when the weather was warmer and lighter...

Screwfix have a 28mm Erbauer core drill (94375) that can drill to 300mm depth, more than enough for a single skin. Needs a separate arbour (either hex or SDS (8666V) depending on your drill)... I think it was the thick end of 34 quid for the two, but it'll probably have application for future central heating work. I did contemplate a 25mm drill but the exhaust pipe is actually 1" and flimsy so trying to force it through might have crumpled it; I thought a mm or so slack couldn't hurt - bit of lead sheet will fill the gap - and anyway I couldn't find a 25/26mm in stock locally.

Has no pilot and you don't use hammer action, I just hand-held the tube with a TIG glove, on a steepish angle to start the top of the hole and as it chewed its way in dropped it to the required angle (I put a slight downward slope on the hole to help any condensate to drain).
Exhaust silencer pointing downward outside the garage, bit of wire mesh Jubilee-clipped over the outlet to stop wasps from thinking it's their very own Premier Inn. To be fair it probably doesn't need the silencer, it's hemmed in by fences and garages so the neighbours shouldn't hear anything - local traffic noise will be louder anyway.

I did contemplate a second hole for the air intake but I don't think it's a problem to draw the combustion air from the heated space? I'm sure plenty of opinions on that will soon surface : - can't say I've noticed any ill-effects after two or three hours.

Even on full blast the heater doesn't make much of an impression in my uninsulated 30x9 foot garage, but in the immediate area it's warm enough to work without gloves. Mine's the version with four hot air tubes, some just have one large exit. I ran two of the flexis into a couple of offcuts of 3" alu tube; they act like radiators once the air's blown through them for a while... every little helps! I might see if I can arrange a curtain to split the 'workshop' area from the 'garage' bit where the car and bike live.

You def do not need an air inlet - only one hole for the exhaust!

Those 4 outlet ones are designed for boats etc - you can swap the end cap back - I have plenty spare if you want one.

 

[Pete.]

Gentlemen, make sure your SDS drill has a clutch. Mine doesn't it turned out.
View attachment 525387

I've heard of 'eyeing it in' but I don't think I'll ever try it now after seeing what it can cause

 

[fizzy]

Gentlemen, make sure your SDS drill has a clutch. Mine doesn't it turned out.
View attachment 525387

Looks like my mate when I let him shoot my .308 many years ago - he didn't seem to understand recoil even though I warned him

 

[zzr1200]

Gentlemen, make sure your SDS drill has a clutch. Mine doesn't it turned out.
View attachment 525387

A proper Shiner..Ouch

 

[zzr1200]

Hoping to fit a Chinese diesel heater in the new garage
I will need to drill a hole for the exhaust and one for the air inlet
The Brick work is quite tough but only one course thick so I don't want to just bash through with a Big SDS drill so thought about a core drill?
Any advice welcome

8mm or less drill from inside, 25+mm drill from the outside with wood support for breaking out....sorted...