- Thread starter Blobber
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thats clocked at about 180, can these be straightened by any one clever?
Kram
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The large absent peice of cast iron on the quill wont be helping, looks to have been painted over.
Get the chuck off and indicate on the taper, it may be the chuck has been knocked and isnt sitting right. I also wouldnt indicate on the OD of a drill chuck as theres no guarantee it was ever true to the jaws. Chuck up a 1/2" HSS bit or similar, something ground or turned true and with a good surface to indicate.
Get the chuck off and indicate on the taper, it may be the chuck has been knocked and isnt sitting right. I also wouldnt indicate on the OD of a drill chuck as theres no guarantee it was ever true to the jaws. Chuck up a 1/2" HSS bit or similar, something ground or turned true and with a good surface to indicate.
addjunkie
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Using the handle wind the quill as far down as it goes. See if there is a slot in it to get the chuck out. Jacobs chucks are normally pressed onto a taper. The taper is sometimes on another morese taper. If therea hole in the quil use a drift to drop the more taper out. Then clock the inside of the taper.
Blobber
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brightspark
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look at the chuck it should tell you on the side which jacobs taper is on it most havent a screw . all mine haven't apart from hand held drills
Agroshield
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If that is not visible, the picture shows the chuck itself is a Jacobs 34 and I think a 34 only ever came with one taper, a JT6.
Blobber
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I will get a better look at the chuck tomorrow and see what details are on it
So presumably I will need a couple of wedges to draw it out?
brightspark
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i removed mine with a drift and hammer one quick bat 
Other Daniel
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i removed mine with a drift and hammer one quick bat
One wedge, one hammer.....sharp
Stefan shows us how
And again
The above videos are all grinding based, but you could probably get away with hard turning if you have a lathe and a fixed steady. It looks like you have plenty of length to work with at least before the chuck runs back into the shoulder on the spindle. Your other option is massaging it back straight between v blocks, depending on where the distortion is.
And again
The above videos are all grinding based, but you could probably get away with hard turning if you have a lathe and a fixed steady. It looks like you have plenty of length to work with at least before the chuck runs back into the shoulder on the spindle. Your other option is massaging it back straight between v blocks, depending on where the distortion is.
