drag gun internal connection

[ragnor]

Well have looked into machine but I'm at a total lose where electronics is involved can't see where these connections are see pic (this is where I think it comes from not sure) . But have noticed another fault a ressistor is totaly missing and can't see it on wiring diagram, the number on the pc board is r9 see pic, (no idea of it's ressistance). Is there any where I can send this machine to to have it repaired properly?

 

[the snooper]

Well have looked into machine but I'm at a total lose where electronics is involved can't see where these connections are see pic (this is where I think it comes from not sure) . But have noticed another fault a ressistor is totaly missing and can't see itView attachment 83500 View attachment 83501 on wiring diagram, the number on the pc board is r9 see pic, (no idea of it's ressistance). Is there any where I can send this machine to to have it repaired properly?

at a guess it will go next to that one but you need to find the other one on the machine and then work it out from there, if there is no connections next to the 3rd that will allow the loose one to mount then youve found its location

 

[the snooper]

R9 is a 7.5k ohm 30w resistor location on schematic is E6

 

[ragnor]

View attachment 83519

at a guess it will go next to that one but you need to find the other one on the machine and then work it out from there, if there is no connections next to the 3rd that will allow the loose one to mount then youve found its location

Hi, Just got back from family meet. Not quite with you on your description as to the connections you mean?

R9 is a 7.5k ohm 30w resistor location on schematic is E6

I have removed the pcb from the machine and had a look behind the resistor R9 and there are #3 soldered connections there. What kind of resistor has #3 connections? Is there any one that you can recommend that could repair help in any way on this bl**dy machine? It's getting on my nerves now not really knowing what I'm doing. Any assistance at this time would be highly welcome.

 

[Sundgist]

What kind of resistor has #3 connections?

Variable resistor. What's left in that space is the frame that supported it.

 

[ragnor]

Variable resistor. What's left in that space is the frame that supported it.

Thank you for the quick response. Sundgist but still not able to tell what value it is/was?

 

[Sundgist]

Unfortunately not without a full schematic. The one linked to does not show all the boards and components.
The part Snooper referred to is R92
Going by the state of that metal support it looks like it ended it's life with either a violent bang or has been forced out. Are there any pieces lying inside anywhere?
May help to take a few more photos including a wider more complete view of that board. Does the board have a part no. / name label?
Might be worth a try contacting the manufacturer for a part value.

.............Just a random thought...............
Is the LED shown on that photo the temperature LED? Would this make R9 the current output dial? Its not still on the top panel is it? having been yanked off whilst opening it up?
Bear in mind I'm going by the photos in the other thread showing the knob in place so apologies if this comes across as a bit patronising.

 

[ragnor]

Hi, Sundqist. This is the view behind the gun block and where I think the capacitor was situated. As you can see I have removed the casing and innards of the damaged item, the LED is for the temp, the current control knob does not sit above this point so don't think it connects here. But then again I could be totally wrong (which UN-doubt ably I am ) Could this be the connections for the current control which is on the side of the PC Board? I have found #1 stamp and #1 label on the board.
I have taken a full view pic of the board, hope this will help? All pics seam to be upside down for some reason. (please turn your screens right side up) LOL. Thanks for all the help I have received so far. Does any body know if the makers of this machine are still operating or have they been taken over? If so would some one know who, and have any info to pass on? Any help in getting this machine in operation would be totally and hart felt appreciated. Regards to all who have helped so far.

 

[Sundgist]

....this is going to be difficult to do without seeing the whole thing in front of me.

Firstly, how is the current control connected to the circuit board.
It seems to line up perfectly with the position of the missing variable resistor.
Is the current control knob still on the top panel?

Regarding the capacitors, there should be 3 of these in total, the one shown, one in your hand, and one other, can you see it?
The one on the photo looks to be connected to E17, its other leg should be either E19 or E1. Could you confirm?
They should be connected as follows:
#1 E17 and E19
#2 E19 and E1
#3 E17 and E1
Technically they are all 3 connected to each other but may not necessarily share to same physical mounting point. ie E17 is on a negative return so the other cap could be sat elsewhere on or off the board with a direct electrical path.

Bear in mind you could be on a hiding to nowhere even if you do get these 4 bits sorted. Your post "repair" spare capacitor is not the cause of the original fault.
What was the original fault?
Has your "muppet" actually fixed/replaced anything whilst losing a few components?
Is anything else (visible or not) missing, misconnected or damaged?

 

[ragnor]

Hi, thanks for your reply, as for question 1
there was no controller in the top when I obtained the machine, I have inserted this my self and put fly leads on it. Was unsure as to where it connected, I thought it was connected to the plug with the 3 connections on the side of the PCB marked with the red Ty-wrap in the pic. The resistor is rated as 10K as pic



I would have to look more closely to the circuits to answer the second question. Will get back on that one will use a multi meter with help.

The original repair the *Muppet*
did was near to the center, on the left hand side of the board see pic.It's the big copper colored coil that can be seen.It was lose in the case.

The only component left over was the capacitor.

Thank you so much, for your patience and fortitude with my ignorance in this. Kindest regards (another Muppet)

 

[Sundgist]

I'm gonna stick my neck out with certainty that the leads from your controller belong in R9.
Originally would have been a PCB mounted unit whose shaft would have poked up through the hole you've mounted yours into.
Connect middle lead to the middle hole and the other two either side, if when you eventually come to test it the current control works in reverse just swap round the two outside leads.

Next, to eliminate these capacitors....
If you can find which leads each leg has continuity with.
Find the labelled lead positions below,
one probe on one leg the other probe on the lead at the labelled position.

#1 E17/E5/ and E19/E14
#2 E19/E14 and E1
#3 E17/E5/ and E1

"patience and fortitude" .... just keeping in practice.